Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have been thinking of buying a Nismo 320km dash for my R33 GTSt.

Only problem is as it's an auto, will this affect the workings of the dash etc? apart from the obvious of losing the PRND21 dash display?

Any info on this would be much apprectiated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/72918-nismo-320km-dash-r33-suit-auto/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Guys,

I've just ordered one from Nengun, just wondering what would the top speed be if I installed POWER FC to override 180Km/h Cut off?

What's the highest you guys have gone in urs?

And did a normal autoelectrician install it or did u do it urselves?

Cheers

Iceduck

i know for a fact a speedo from an automatic r33 will read very low when used in the dash of a manual r33. i believe this is due to a difference in the speedo sender in manuals/autos.

so if you install a speedo that is meant for a manual i am quite sure it will read very high.

it's not the diff ratio. it's difference in the speedo sender in manuals/autos in the gearbox

so if you get an 320km speedo from a manual and put in ya auto it'll only read about half of the speed of what you are actually doing. eg: if you are going 60k it will only read about 30k or less

it's not the diff ratio. it's difference in the speedo sender in manuals/autos in the gearbox

so if you get an 320km speedo from a manual and put in ya auto it'll only read about half of the speed of what you are actually doing. eg: if you are going 60k it will only read about 30k or less

apexir33 is spot on, as far as i have found the difference is due to the speedo sender. and it will read about half or double (depending on which mismatch it is)

Hm, when I'm doing 100 on my speedo, it is actually 91 according to the speed check LCD on Princes Hwy from Geelong to Melbourne. Mine is converted auto with stock manual gearbox and retaining the auto's 4.3 diff. Based on your argument, it's not half, it's only about 5%. I think a factory manual R33 with 4.11 when cruising along at 100, it will show around 96 or 97 on the same Geelong speed check display.

speedo sender in manuals/autos in the gearbox

Sorry, I missed this.. if the speed sender is in the gearbox, then yes, you're right then... because my gearbox is now manual, the manual speed sender should be in the gearbox when I converted it, and I have a manual, 300kph nismo speedo. It was still the same case with stock manual speedo, 5% less, which is contributed to the different diff ratio.

Sorry, I missed this.. if the speed sender is in the gearbox, then yes, you're right then... because my gearbox is now manual, the manual speed sender should be in the gearbox when I converted it, and I have a manual, 300kph nismo speedo. It was still the same case with stock manual speedo, 5% less, which is contributed to the different diff ratio.

I have a 320KMPH nismo speedo on my R32 GTR 2 speed manual and an apexi multichecker.

when I'm going 120 on the speedo the multichecker reads only 111 ish. but the speedo feels more right. Is there a way to check which one is more correct?

Also I read that a stock R32 GTR can get up to 250kmph max, is this a gearing issue? I've been over 200 and it's not that close to the redline.

When changing wheel sizes we know it can put the speedo a bit out of wack & I've heard this can be corrected by either changing the sizes of the trans gear or driven/ speedo gear to which the speedo cable is attached to. This will change the rate the speed is read; there were ratios to work out which size gears to use but that part went over my head. So, not sure if similar concept could be applied here.

Anyways, I thought an auto electrician should be able to recalibrate the manual speedo cluster to fit an auto to give correct reading.

Also I read that a stock R32 GTR can get up to 250kmph max, is this a gearing issue? I've been over 200 and it's not that close to the redline.

Gearing plays a part, then traction loss, and as well as aerodynamic drag... All this making achieving 250 possible top speed seems forever, best done on a very long straight like the Motor's top speed test in Avalon Airport or car testing oval circuit with cambered corner? An R34 GTR with 6 speed makes it possible to achieve more 250km/h Motor magazine I think had a modified R33 GTR achieving close to 300km/h

Thanks for the Info. So it is actually not a redline redline limit that dictates the top speed.

There for if the environment was right, eg, very straight road/track and you decided to test your top speed, it won't hurt your engine as much as using a car for drag.?

Gearing plays a part, then traction loss, and as well as aerodynamic drag... All this making achieving 250 possible top speed seems forever, best done on a very long straight like the Motor's top speed test in Avalon Airport or car testing oval circuit with cambered corner? An R34 GTR with 6 speed makes it possible to achieve more 250km/h Motor magazine I think had a modified R33 GTR achieving close to 300km/h

Well provided you didn't slam your gears to get there as fast as possible (like in drag racing) I suppose it will be more gentle on your engine and gearbox. However prolonged high revs to achive that top speed (e.g. 6000rpm in 5th) may possibly do some bad things to your engine/tranny, especially if the car is not in top condition.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...