Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of purchasing a Stagea, and rather than jump off the deep end and end up buying the wrong thing, I was wondering if anyone knows of a FAQ about Stageas which details the various models and the differences between them.

I guess I'd prefer a high powered 5spd with leather and the sunroofs. Was there such a car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73216-stagea-newbie/
Share on other sites

You pay a much bigger premium for the manuals and their only available in the series 2 (started 98). For a manual series 2 with leather and sunroofs I would imagine an approximate $35,000 starting price?

Not much variance in the models that are available within australia as were limited to practically the top ones, 4wd and turbo. The main differing ones are the ones with the 2.5 single turbo and the 2.6 twin turbo.

Thats about the quickest I can put together for you ;)

Also, I have a stagea for sale at the moment in queensland, it has leather seats and is silver in colour but unfortnatly not a manual but its for sale at $22k and at that price you can easily make a manual with a heap of extra cash :D If you are keen heres a link and you can call me on 0438 981907 or email me [email protected]

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=69857

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73216-stagea-newbie/#findComment-1345699
Share on other sites

Most of the info you are looking for is in these forums - just means reading through them all - its probably back on page 6,7,8 of the threads by now... or check out mcnmag's website for some of the basic specs and differences (link is in his profile).

But there really isnt that much to tell when talking about what u want "a high powered 5spd with leather and the sunroofs"... you basically are looking for a manual series 2 Stagea RSFourV, with leather and sunroofs as options (I dont think there was a specific "model" that had these - people just chose them as factory options.

If you arent really concerned by whether you pay $20g or $30g and will still be doing all the same mods whther you spend either amount, then you're probably wanting a Series 2 manual, and if you score leather and sunroofs then cool - otherwise you will probably have to spend a couple of months scanning the Japanese auctions to find the exact specs you are after.

But yeah - the main differences...

- Series 2 is Dec 1998 onwards, with Neo6 engine (30 kW more power, heaps more torque, VCT and option of manual (Series 1 there was no such thing as manual option)

- "RSFour" = Atessa 4WD, "RS" = just rear wheel drive

- leather - look at the seats :P

- sunroofs - look at the roof :)

Then just power the baby up with the usual mods... turbo back 3" exhaust; FMIC; slightly up the boost; fuel management coz these babies run rich and suck fuel; suspension... and so on - but yeah - most of the info is here for you to read already so take the tiome to do some research :rofl:

:rofl:

Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/73216-stagea-newbie/#findComment-1352937
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
    • To pick up what Dose is putting down. Not a lot of point running a huge hose if the motor is still restricted to the smaller size... It's only capable of flowing so much at that point...   *Waits for GTSBoy to come in and bring in the technicalities of length of pipe, and additional restriction from wall friction etc etc*
    • Hooley Dooley these things have some history! If i sell them they will need a certificate of providence to prove they have been in the hands of verified RB20 royalty! They have been stored in a plastic tub, away from sunlight and moisture. They are in mint condition. And they will stay that way, as i have sprung the money for a set of shockworks coilovers. I'm just working on getting them in at the moment, after rebushing the rear of the car, and while the subframe was out i welded in the GKtech reinforcement bracing as well.  They will get a workout at Ararat King of The Hill in November. I ran 48s on the short course there a few months ago, and i am hoping with new bushes and shocks in the rear i can launch a bit harder. There was a fair bit of axle tramp when i tried too hard off the line. a few of the corners had dips mid way which also made the car feel a bit unsettled, hopefully this will help there too.   
    • Food for thought, the stock oil filter thread is a 3/4-16 UNF, which has an ID of about 10 to 12mm (according to ChatGPT lol). Now compare than to an 10AN, which has an ID of about 14mm (Raceworks is 14.2mm, Speed flow is 14.27mm).  
×
×
  • Create New...