Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

both of mine have been small enough (envelope express post) to fit in normal mailbox

my guess is maybe he simply is a bit short on stock? would be good for him to let u know if theirs a delay

Sorry don't think I could find any information on this during the 33 pages or so. Maybe there was just too much to read and I missed it.

anyway, my friend has a WRX and I'm trying to find out for him if he would have any problems fitting one in. I noticed most of you guys are increasing boost to 14 psi or so, but that is stock for WRX, is there much room for improvement for him or would he be better saving his money and getting an electronic one?

P.S. had anyone gone over 14 psi with any problems or spiking?

thanks

Maybe someone's jumped onto this idea and is acting as a seller of the boost controller to get people to pay

him $35 each. Might not sound like much, but if 100 turbo boys pay him 35 bucks, that's $3500!

I'll give it another week before getting serious about it, but it's already been much longer than required to receive the payment and have sent the item.

Either this guys really busy, really slack or really dodgy.

Maybe someone's jumped onto this idea and is acting as a seller of the boost controller to get people to pay

him $35 each. Might not sound like much, but if 100 turbo boys pay him 35 bucks, that's $3500!

I'll give it another week before getting serious about it, but it's already been much longer than required to receive the payment and have sent the item.

Either this guys really busy, really slack or really dodgy.

I got one of these not that long ago and found mark to be anything but 'really dodgy'. After the first one he sent got lost in aus post over xmas he immediatley sent out a second one for free, which turned up in my letterbox 2 days later. I hope that is some reassurance for you all, give him some time guys...how long has it been??

Funny you ask, I just heard back from him now!

Sounds legit, and I apologize for suggesting otherwise. In my defence, though, there ARE a lot of dodgy people flying around on the 'net.

Sorry Mark, we'll work it all out.

Yep, I believe I've made reparations above for previous suggestions.

That said, it wouldn't be impossible for someone to create a rogue e-mail account and use it to get in touch with people for the purposes of ripping them off for parts money.

Which is another reason why I'm peddling the picture inclusion idea in the 'for sale' section.

Thanks anyway for the criticism.

i ordered mine laste week and got it yesterday, so mine was a good clean transaction, but i got no instructions either...can someone do a guide on how to do it and sticky it to the first post or something, instead of sifting through 34 pages of comments

the instructions supplied were quite simple:

the boost controller has a screw/nut which pushes a ball in - the entry to where the air which pushes against the ball (the other end from the nut) is where the line from the compressor housing line goes.

the line in the middle of the boost controller (closest to nut/screw) is where the air that is let past the ball/spring goes, and it should hook up to the wastegate actuator

remembering how it works should make installation easy. as for any boost solenoids, i think most people have just disconnected them completely (i did on my r31) but you may want to check the last 10 pages of the thread, i think there was some notes about r33 installation

Edited by NewKleer

installed the boost controller today, seem simple,

but i keep geting high BOOST,

how do u reduce the boost?

tighten the bolt?

or releasing it?

i tried both, but still i can pass 16psi?

i did something wrong?

maybe installed it wrong? right angel t piece to the turbo instead?

any helps?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
    • Just like in being 14mm too small (296mm) makes it not fit, being 14mm too big (324mm) it also won't fit. You want to find the correct rotor.
    • @GTSBoy Ok so that was the shops problem...they showed R33 rotors on R34 page and i did not know 296 do not fit(and are for R33) Yes i bought "kit" with rotors and pads. Pads are ok(i have GTT calipers front and rear). They have some 324mm but no 310mm. So i dont know if they would fit. I have 17inch LMGT4s So another question. Can i fit those in the rear or they are just "too" big for that?
×
×
  • Create New...