Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just recieved my Turbotech boost controller in the mail. such quick delivery, very happy with this product, will be going on the car tonight, hopefully i get better results than the gfb bleed valve i borrowed off my mate..

Ed

  • Replies 1.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah mines got a really small hole in the back of the housing......

if you dont have one in yours get a really small drill bit and do one... i dont know what it does as of yet...

Went to my mates house todayt to give him back the gfb one and put my new one in, he put it all in etc etc and we went for a drive, first gear was mental, 2nd gear was off the planet, i watched the guage and as soon as it hit 15psi i backed off, got out, adjusted it, same again, adjusted it, same again.. i said to him you sure its on the right way, yeah its fine its fine... looked at instructions, looked at car, on the wrong way,

put it on the right way (i did it this time), went for a drive, adjusted it, now it holds a beautiful 11-12psi in every gear, no spiking,.......

The car feels slow compared to the gfb one because the gfb one is SHIT and it dosent hit full boost for AGES it feels more top end

the rb20 has the beauiful lateral feel to it once again with more power and torque up top from the extra few psi...

Ed

if you dont have one in yours get a really small drill bit and do one... i dont know what it does as of yet...

read back on the previous page (post #770). stops wastegate staying open after ball is pushed back by spring after pressure drops

Well I ordered one a while back and I'm gona install it today. Now it did'nt come with instructions (not that it's really hard anyway) but I just wanted a little clerification on installing it.

I have a 1990 R32 GTS-t, RB20det and does the controller get connected to the vacum line coming from the wastegate actuator? As well is which way is it supposed to facing as in, the adjustment knob facing vertically or horizontally. I just don't want to put it on backwards or anything.

I'm not being lazy, as I have read most of the replys in this thread, but that was prior to buying and I can't remember if there was anything concrete (install wise) for installing this on an RB20det motor.

I'd appreciate anything you guys can do and if you have any pic's that you could be post up, I'd be most greatfull.

Thanks a lot.

Thanks dude it makes it now bit clearer.

Ok now how close can i get it to stock boost by using this device? im really after the boost comming on harder and earlier rather than running more boost?

anyone here running their controller in this fashion?

cheers

Read my post a few pages back. I am running 7psi (rather than the stock solanoid running 5psi up to 4500rpm, then giving 7psi)

The quicker spool and having 7psi all the time gives lots more punch from 3000-5000rpm, which was previously missing. Car is fairly stock.

Someone asked about blocking off the unused hose on the crossover pipe... I cut an inch and a half of rubber pipe, then put it back onto the hose-nipple, put a screw that was a bit larger than the inside diameter of the hose, drove it in with a screwdriver, and then put a hose-clamp on it as you would normally. Screw isn't coming off, and it certainly won't get sucked in. Cable-tie over the bit of pipe, where the screw is if you want to be sure that it's air-tight.

yeppo, this is simply awesome!

i put this thing in after much trouble. haha, i thort this would be easy, but shows how much of a mechanical nub i am.

anyway, spools up much quicker now, no stock blowoff between gears (97 series 2) and holds boost stongly all the way to redline.

on the stock boost controller it sits just halfway between the +7 and the halfway marker.

damn worth the money.

peoples...i have just fitted marks bc onto an r34 auto...1st gear i get around .5 bar an in second i get .8 which is what i want.shouldnt i get full boost in first??

depends if u removed the stock solenoid.

ie, does ur boost source go from turbo->boost controller->wastrgate, or somewhere else on the way

depends if u removed the stock solenoid.

ie, does ur boost source go from turbo->boost controller->wastrgate, or somewhere else on the way

i used the lines from the stock solenoid , to hook it up disconected the intercooler hose an blocked it off so it goes turbo boost controler wastegate

Hi All,

How long did postage take once you paid for the Boost Controller? .. I've been waiting a week after making payment with Internet Banking .. Just a bit worried as it is suppose to be sent via express post..

Wrote email to mark but no reply...

Cheers,

-JD

ok guys,

I should be recieving my mbc in the mail soon...

Below is how I think i will install the controller...

post-27154-1143964596.jpg

Should I:

Connect the * into the top of the controller (ie bit opposite tightening nut)

Connect the # into the side of the controller

Plug a Screw in the 'S' end of the hose

But what about the & hose???

Any help would be great!!

Cheers,

-JD

yes for */#

dont think it matters what u do with the rest, maybe loop it between 2 holes on the soldenoid to make it looks a bit more "stock" or something

Ok :D NewKleer! ... so the screw will go in the 'S' bit i take it too .. ?

Yeah with the & hose i will loop it from bottom solenoid nipple to the top one.

-JD

Edited by JD-33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...