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Pinging is bad and engine destroying - it happens very quickly so don't "dump" it until you either reduce the boost or fix the problem. Means that not enough fuel is getting there as the stock cooler "should" be ok with that sort of boost, so points at the fuel pump or regulator or injectors.

I think..

Was car pinging before you changed air cleaner? Pod filters are not always what they are cracked up to be. Standard fuel system can handle your boost upgrade, engine management may not. How are u increasing fuel to meet boost increase?

Where you add boost you must add fuel or lean mixture results in engine detonation.

how much are the splitfire coils CROAT?

yeh he has said it wasnt pinging, and that he had put the timing up alot, and as soon as the bleed valve spiked, everything went out of wack. im going to jaycar today, aparently those electronic boost controllers are alot better, but one day ill have a piggy back to overide all limitations.

how much are the splitfire coils CROAT?

yeh he has said it wasnt pinging, and that he had put the timing up alot, and as soon as the bleed valve spiked, everything went out of wack. im going to jaycar today, aparently those electronic boost controllers are alot better, but one day ill have a piggy back to overide all limitations.

running excessive ignition timing combined with boost spike will definately cause detonation. missfire due to overboost can be caused by incorrect plug heat range and or plug gap. usually coil pack failure will produce missfire even at idle.

usually coil pack failure will produce missfire even at idle.

Depends how farked they are... My engine was missing around 5500 then coming on strong again at about 6000, detected it as coils right away so started saving up for splitfires... They were installed last week and no more missing at high revs... Only on one or two occaisions did my car actually miss at idle or below 4000...

If your car splutters for a bit under acceleration then gets going again after about 6000, i'd say it's coil packs.

As for price... you can buy them from most place for >$1,000... one of the traders in the for sale section was selling them for about $650 i think... you can get them from nengun for about $600 shipped but you will probably have to wait a few weeks.

i wouldnt bother with a jaycar boost controller and i wouldnt bother with a piggy ecu as it will only fix the problem somewhat(it might even hinder you performance) personally i would save my money and go the whole hog if you are really serious ....

save SavE SAVE !!! and get yourself stand alone managment =)

Not PFC either (go for map sensor =) better no afm <----- or so i am told)

thats my two cents.

how much are the splitfire coils CROAT?

yeh he has said it wasnt pinging, and that he had put the timing up alot, and as soon as the bleed valve spiked, everything went out of wack. im going to jaycar today, aparently those electronic boost controllers are alot better, but one day ill have a piggy back to overide all limitations.

ctully did post it in the right spot lol

Chris,

On a GTST a map sensor is only worth while if you are chasing 400rwkw or more.

Otherwise stick with the PFC, it has 6 injector drivers that are sequential, 6 coil drivers, 02 closed loop, and has been designed specifically for the model of car.

The AFM is more accurate. The restriction is nothing, especially considering its sitting in front of a turbo.

Intake mods at the AFM and or airbox make more of a difference on N/A's than it does turbo's.

Grab the above specs and have a look at what sort of money you are paying for an ecu to meet the specs. Most skimp out with either the o2, injector or coil drivers.

For the Skylines the PowerFC is extremely hard to beat UNLESS you have plenty of money to throw around for a Motec.

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