Jump to content
SAU Community

Hybrid COPY FMIC GROUP BUY - ONLY $220 EACH - VIC


Recommended Posts

Hi guys, it seems everywhere I look there is a buy for these copy hybrid coolers.

The intercooler is constructed entirely of high quality 6061 aluminum and

the core is 100% vacuum brazed. The polished aluminum end tanks are hand TIG

welded for a perfect fit. The ambient fin pitch has been adjusted to provide

an optimal fin density of 15 fins/inch. This gives the intercooler excellent

flow properties as well as a large cooling surface area, and the efficient

Bar & Plate core takes advantage of these properties.

The four threaded mounting points along the top and bottom of the

intercooler make installation simple. Typical installations require little

to no modifications to the vehicle.

Features & Specs:

a.. All TIG Welded 6061 Aluminum, polished end tanks

a.. 100% Vacuum Brazed Core

a.. High Efficiency Bar & Plate Construction

a.. Inlet/Outlet: 3inch

a.. Tested CFM: 1020 CFM

a.. Fin Pitch: 15 Fins/Inch

a.. Four Threaded Universal Mounting Points

a.. core size is 600x300x76

a.. pressure drop of 20psi - 17psi

a.. heat exhange of 72C - 24C

FMIC.JPG

FMIC1.JPG

FMIC2.JPG

FMIC3.JPG

FMIC4.JPG

NOTE:

These pictures were taken from a random intercooler, I have not gone out of my way to find one that is perfect, this is the one that was closest to me at the time.

(DO NOT USE THIS IMAGE ELSEWHERE - THESE ARE OF MY COOLERS)

Prices are only $220 pickup or $230 delivered to VIC, NSW, QLD, SA. Price will be $240 for WA and NT delivered.

A 50% deposit will be required as you place the order and remainding 50% when the cooler arrives.

INTERCOOLERS ARE NOW IN STOCK!!!

HOW TO ORDER

send me an email to: [email protected] with the following information:

* your full name

* your full delivery address

* your user name on the forum and the forum you are from

* number of units required

P.S I CAN ACCEPT PAYPAL PAYMENTS ON THESE BUT WILL INCUR A 3% SURCHARGE

Cheers

Greg

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Unfortunately not :)

There is a group buy on piping on here at the moment for $450 for piping!!! I think this is a great deal and ill be getting my piping from there.. I think its Rhamanovski or something like that

Greg

Hi guys sorry about this i made an error and put a more expensive price up..

Prices are only $220 pickup or $230 delivered to VIC, NSW, QLD, SA. Price will be $240 for WA and NT delivered. Pickup is available from Werribee - VIC

As far as i know they dont whistle. I haven't had anyone tell me they whistle and haven't run 1 on my car. If it does whistle on your car then just pass it onto the next person for this price.

I WILL BE ABLE TO BEAT ANY AUSTRALIAN COMPETITORS PRICE!!!

I have 50 coming in stock within 21 days. Taking orders now!!

I have the cheapest prices in Australia on the same item as other people have!! Will beat any price!!

Cheers

Greg

The reason for copying the cooler is simple. Hybrid makes one of the best coolers around and there is a market for it. So a manufacturer copies it and sells it off to people like us for 1/4 of the price :P.

The reason for copying the cooler is simple. Hybrid makes one of the best coolers around and there is a market for it. So a manufacturer copies it and sells it off to people like us for 1/4 of the price :P.

Thanks mate ;)

Greg

The sky is blue because

The blue color of the sky is due to Rayleigh scattering. As light moves through the atmosphere, most of the longer wavelengths pass straight through. Little of the red, orange and yellow light is affected by the air.

However, much of the shorter wavelength light is absorbed by the gas molecules. The absorbed blue light is then radiated in different directions. It gets scattered all around the sky. Whichever direction you look, some of this scattered blue light reaches you. Since you see the blue light from everywhere overhead, the sky looks blue.

:P

yeah i already put my order in for 2 coolers...

does any know where to get 3 inch piping kits for r33 GTS sII and s15??

i know there is a group buy here but they are 2.5 inch...

Get em made at any exhaust shop using mild steel and use silicon hoses to join em? that's what I'll be doin anyways. The wholesaler that these intercoolers come from just started selling silicon hosing as well... EXAUNV, you might wanna check on that.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...