Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

that one pictured is a 90 series (twin turbo, non vvti 1J)...

hmm. i don't know much about it.

Anyways.....the same question but for the above car....how much are they going for in the market...the 90series?

Seing no-one has helped so far i'll be happy to lend a hand.

The car pictured is a JZX90 Mark II built from 1993-1996.

You CAN import and comply these however there are only 2 compliance plate holders for JZX series cars in Australia that i am aware of. A place in Brisbane and Auto wholesale in W.A.

Compliance right now is a total joke on these cars but they are seriously awesome, best 4 door sedan in their price range and even better than most twice, 3 times+ their price.

Good luck with it all, PM me or dojobi if you need any more help, we seem to be the resident JZX experts :stupid:

JZX 90's are avialable as I just got mine complied by Jim at JB WA and it is a magic car,

Contact him on Phone 0411 693256 as per DOTR's contact details or email him on [email protected]  

Link to find who has what is http://raws.dotars.gov.au/rawswebpublic/rawpubmain.asp

Hey man do you know if he has 100 plates as well?

How much is he charging for compliance on 90's/100's?

Cheers, hopefully will be getting my 100 at the end of the year, need to save a bit more to get myself a manual 100 :flamed:

100 Plates are avialable off Frank from CAM and his contact number is on the link but when serious email me your personal address and I will pass it on as I see then once a week.

Have a look at the yard's any way as I am just trading my 90 in when I get a 100 due to the pricing is so good.

They have a manual 90, 60,000 klm, 18's, lowered, manual and TRD stickers by current trends and they only want $19,990 to get the cars on the road, it was also the test car is is straight as.

http://www.autowholesale.com.au/ has all the info.

Ali there's no one compliancing 90 series atm. We've got a client who's desperately trying to find a compliancer as well.

Either way, check the RAWS website to see when compliance is available and from who.

Whilst the 100's are nicer.. I reckon the 90's in many ways have much of the same qualities about them, and that much cheaper. They don't look that much different on the inside, and pretty much slightly older revision of the same engine...with a few power upgrades I couldn't imagine them being too different to drive.

I'd say they'd be a bit more different than you'd expect. They lost a turbo and added VVTi, so instead of max torque at 4800rpm in the JZX90, you get it at 2400rpm in the JZX100. I can see what you're saying though. The 90s are a very good cheap alternative.

JZX90's are an awesome car, but JZX100's are a step up again and they have come down A LOT in price so are worth it.

Interior in the 100 is much newer and has genuine carbon fibre trim standard :aroused: plus it looks much nicer.

As dojobi said, 1 less turbo, VVTi (exhaust), better suspension set-up and looks a shite load hotter!

Cant wait for mine! DRIFTT which company did you buy your car through in japan? Just need to start looking into finding an auction website that is decent who i can buy the car through in japan.

Will be good to see another 100 on the Perth roads so let us know when you get it, less than 10 JZX100's road registered in W.A. right now, which is good, keeps them rare :headspin:

Cant wait for mine! DRIFTT which company did you buy your car through in japan? Just need to start looking into finding an auction website that is decent who i can buy the car through in japan.

Will be good to see another 100 on the Perth roads so let us know when you get it, less than 10 JZX100's road registered in W.A. right now, which is good, keeps them rare  :headspin:

I got my Mark II JZX90 through Mark Hocking from www.mytrading.org and Jim complyied it, I will give it till the end of the year then get a 100, I want to tinker with the 1JZ-GTE first and see what hp I can get on a budget.

I do love my 90 so it will have to be a Manual 100 to make me sell.

just b4 raws came in i paid $5000 to have my jzx90 complied under SEVS and that wasn't with tyres.

DRIFTT i got 226rwkw on 12psi out of my manual 90 with a few mods.

Power wise the mods are:

Power FC

Cat back exhaust

High flowed steel wheel turbos

Airpods

HKS side mount i/c

Blitz dual sbc

I am so pissed atm.... payed mid to high 20s for the car as it was and have poured probably easy 15k into it and i haven't had one enquiry about it yet. :( atm seems i'll be lucky to get even low 30s for it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...