Rb30 gtr32 lowering engine & Anyone Made Solid / Stronger Engine Mounts?

[GDZ1LA]

i have a r32 gtr, and it keeps ripping the std exhaust side engine mount, i am converting to a rb30 so it will be higher 38mm???, my turbo is already hitting the bonnet (custom manifold) t8834d how can i lower engine (it has a 10mm spacer already) with mounts, and create a stronger mounting setup in the process

any one made ther own mounts? or lowered there engine? from the 4 bolts on block? or via the mount itself

urethane?

other plastics?

alloy? (what are the side effects of a true solid mount)

and how much and a rb30 (4wd with 10mm adaptor) be lowered on a gtr 32 sub fram without contact, i may be able to angle engine on exh side to stop turbo hitting but relise there will be some bonnet mods required,

see pic, this gives you a idea how high already (with rb26 engine)

[GDZ1LA]

and no i am NOT puttin a smallr turbo on it lol,

the alloy comp cover and the air filter are currently hitting ever so slightly with 26 engine,

[Sydneykid]

You're screwed. If you try to lower the engine 30 mm and then add a 10 mm adaptor for the 4wd, this means the sump is 40 mm lower, the gearbox is 40 mm lower, the front drive shafts are 40 mm lower etc etc.

About 5 years ago I built an RB30DET (RB30E/25DE) in an R32GTR and it cleared the standard bonnet easily. By enough to have a rather thick strut brace as well. So there is no basic problem wiht fitting an RB30 into an R32. I believe your ONLY answer is to lower the turbo. It is far less complex and less prone to introducing other problems.

As for engine mounts, I suggest an engine brace would be a good idea if you keep ripping LHS mounts. This is not unusual as RB's turn clockwise, consequnetly there are a number of brands of engine braces with shock aborders available . Nismo make rubber hardeness up engne mounts and Noltec have polyurethane mounts.

I have a couple of cars with solid mount engines (Super Tourers) and they vibrate horrendously, stuff is always falling off and cracking. Not something I would recommend.

Hope that helps:cheers:

[GDZ1LA]

Noltec have polyurethane mounts. do they have a web site? yea i think ill just modify my bonnet, manifold looks to well done to hack up, racepro in nz make a bonnet with a vent right above where it hits,

[Sydneykid]

Noltec have polyurethane mounts.   do they have a web site? yea i think ill just modify my bonnet, manifold looks to well done to hack up, racepro in nz make a bonnet with a vent right above where it hits,

www.noltec.com.au

I have had a closer look at your photo, the turbo doesn't look particularly high. Does it only hit on the bonnet when the engine is flexing? Or is it on it when at rest?

[GDZ1LA]

You're screwed. If you try to lower the engine 30 mm and then add a 10 mm adaptor for the 4wd, this means the sump is 40 mm lower, the gearbox is 40 mm lower, the front drive shafts are 40 mm lower etc etc.

the gearbox and axel angle shouldnt mater that much, i am more worried about hitting the sub frame, what if i angle the engine more so exh side is lower and intake stays the same? that way only the front driv shafts should be affected, the gearbox will just twist on its mounts, this may give me a little height decrease

[GDZ1LA]

www.noltec.com.au

I have had a closer look at your photo, the turbo doesn't look particularly high.  Does it only hit on the bonnet when the engine is flexing? Or is it on it when at rest?

idd say only when flexing, but monuts were ok when i removed the 26 engine on saturday, it has a small mark on top of turbo and a small mark on bonnet where they had been rubbing, nothin major, would a bonnet look gay with a hump where the turbo sits? it may look good with a hump and a reverse bonnet scoop tho?

[GDZ1LA]

i should of taken a picture side on before i reomved engine, here is a pic with brace insatlled

if you see the manifold picture is it to complex to re weld, if it was just the pictured filter that hit i wouldnt worrie, but since its the comp housing itself i sorta have to, i couls also rase the bonnet at the back for heat flow, this will help a litte , but not 38mm, 38mm is deck height increase with 26 to 30?

[Sydneykid]

i should of taken a picture side on before i reomved engine, here is a pic with brace insatlled

if you see the manifold picture is it to complex to re weld, if it was just the pictured filter that hit i wouldnt worrie, but since its the comp housing itself  i sorta have to, i couls also rase the bonnet at the back for heat flow, this will help a litte , but not 38mm, 38mm is deck height increase with 26 to 30?

Ah, it's not the height of the turbo that is the only problem, it is mounted further forward than usual as well. This is where the bonnet droops down towards the front. Personally I would change the angle of the turbo mount flange on the exhaust manifold. Angle the turbo downwards at the front and rotate it 15 degrees clockwise. Not a particualry difficult job for a competant welder.

RB30 is 85 mm stroke and RB26 is 73.7mm stroke, so that's 11.3 mm longer stroke which = 5.65mm taller block to accommodate the extra stroke. In addition the RB30 conrods are ~30mm longer. Hence the usually accepted number is ~35mm taller.

[Ronin 09]

Ah, it's not the height of the turbo that is the only problem, it is mounted further forward than usual as well.  This is where the bonnet droops down towards the front.  Personally I would change the angle of the turbo mount flange on the exhaust manifold.  Angle the turbo downwards at the front and rotate it 15 degrees clockwise.  Not a particualry difficult job for a competant welder.

although that will mean a new / refitted dump as well then

[Sydneykid]

although that will mean a new / refitted dump as well then

It has an "S" bend, so a bit of "warming" will fix it, very simple .

[Ronin 09]

It has an "S" bend, so a bit of "warming" will fix it, very simple .

I should never have doubted you SK