Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I need some help urgently, i recently raced my car at Calder park raceway, on the start line i brought my revs up and dumped the clutch, it made a couple of crunches but the car was still accelerating so i kept my foot into it, not knowing that i had just smashed the rear diff caseing in about 10 peices, just wondering if any other GTR owners have had a similar problem and if so how to fix it. We have had the car up on a hoist but we are still scratching our heads on why it has done this, no the car isnt to low its only 1-2 inches lower than standard. it has nismo shocks (non adjustable) AND whiteline springs, any help would be great. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74643-problems-with-gtr32-rear-end/
Share on other sites

yeah my thoughts also. i usually jack my 32 GTR up by the rear subframe mount points. gtr is a heavy car and I would think putting all that weight on an alloy diff cover would not be good.

nope if i need to see under the car i put it on the hoist, i was thinking maybe the bushes need replacing with some whiteline pinapples.

Hi SLK-GTR, Whiteline pineaples are supplementary, they don't replace the standard bushes.

Things to check;

1. How low is it? Under 355 mm (centre of wheel to guard) is too low and the drive shaft angles torque the diff and the sub frame.

2. Tailshaft alignment and balance

3. Rear and centre tailshaft bearing and carrier

4. Inner CV's

5. Driveshaft alignment and balance

6. Rear wheel bearings

7. Does it axle tramp? Time for some decent shocks?

8. Rear subframe alignment, worn bushes or accident damage

9. Diff centre alignment, bearings and pinion preload

After that it gets a bit more obscure and unlikely.:P

nope if i need to see under the car i put it on the hoist, i was thinking maybe the bushes need replacing with some whiteline pinapples.

Hi SLK-GTR, Whiteline pineaples are supplementary, they don't replace the standard bushes.

Things to check;

1. How low is it? Under 355 mm (centre of wheel to guard) is too low and the drive shaft angles torque the diff and the sub frame.

2. Tailshaft alignment and balance

3. Rear and centre tailshaft bearing and carrier

4. Inner CV's

5. Driveshaft alignment and balance

6. Rear wheel bearings

7. Does it axle tramp? Time for some decent shocks?

8. Rear subframe alignment, worn bushes or accident damage

9. Diff centre alignment, pinion preload and bearings

After that it gets a bit more obscure and unlikely.:P

i have checked most of these things, it use to bang with standard height springs in it now that i have lowered it it seems to have made it better, but then i added more power and that caused it to hit the floor harder. it did tramp a little bit but i was spinning to tyres hard when i raced it. all the bearings seam fine there not noisy and it doesnt viabrate under acceleration and de-acceleration. havnrt checked the cv's yet but i did notice the cv boot was broken could be that, the car has not been in any ac cident every thing is fully alligned. thanks heaps on your information very appreciated

cheers dude

Hi SLK-GTR, Whiteline pineaples are supplementary, they don't replace the standard bushes.

Things to check;

1. How low is it?  Under 355 mm (centre of wheel to guard) is too low and the drive shaft angles torque the diff and the sub frame.

2. Tailshaft alignment and balance

3. Rear and centre tailshaft bearing and carrier

4. Inner CV's

5. Driveshaft alignment and balance

6. Rear wheel bearings

7. Does it axle tramp?  Time for some decent shocks?

8. Rear subframe alignment, worn bushes or accident damage

9. Diff centre alignment, bearings and pinion preload

After that it gets a bit more obscure and unlikely.:(

it sure is an 89, i think its just one of those things that rarely happen but this shit always with e, i guess im cursed. let us know how u go at wsid and goodluck hopw u dont leave your diff bitts from start to finish.

is this an 89?

I plan on going to WSID with mine on the 29/6 so hopefully I don't suffer the same fate

anyone else been to the drags with there GTR yet?

mark

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...