Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all,

I'm going to be pulling my steering system apart this w/e and while I;m there i figured i may as well pull the radiator out and flush it (and as a bonus i'll have more room to work).

I noticed that the air con piping runs *through* the radiator to (well i think its called) the condensor. is there any way to take the radiator out without de-gassing the a/c system?

If i do have to de gas the system, how do i do it? what should i be careful of?

Any help appreciated :D

Thanks,

Michael :(

mine looks stock, but there is a gap (looks like it's by design) in the radiator code on the Drivers side, and one of the AC pipes run through that to the condensor. Seems like a stupid idea to me. I'll try and get a pic up tonight of what i'm talking about :P

i have 32gtst and all i had to do was drop the stone tray on the bottom of the chassis undo top and bottom radiator hoses the 2 mounts on the top of the radiator that goes to the front support bar and unclip the bottom of the fan shroud so it clears the rad fan and it should lift out untouching the condensor pipe work as this usually runs in a groove in the rad core design

hope it helps some

Yeap, radiator comes out pretty easy, just remember to slide it and the fan shroud on at the same time when you put it back, if you bolt the rad in then attempt to put the shroud back on you'll have a hell of a time clearing the fan and not bashing up your rad.

thanks lads...I'll have a look at mine tonight, but to be honest i don't know what they've done. Pulling a radiator out should be a simple thing, but doesn't seem so here :confused: I'll get some some pics up 2 nite. thanks for your comments.

The best way to remove the radiator is undo the 4 x 10mm nuts holding the fan on....remove the fan. Undo the 2 x 10mm bolts holding the brackets that hold the top of the radiator. Undo the top and bottom radiator hose clamps and remove hose from radiator. Disconnect green plug from drivers side of fan shroud. Slide radiator out from the top. Should take no longer than 10 minutes.

gah i feel like a damn fool :rolleyes: there's something for the aircon sitting in front f the radiator, which is why there's a pipe going into it.

The raditator should be a piece of piss.

Thanks for all the help guys :)

The best way to remove the radiator is undo the 4 x 10mm nuts holding the fan on....remove the fan. Undo the 2 x 10mm bolts holding the brackets that hold the top of the radiator. Undo the top and bottom radiator hose clamps and remove hose from radiator. Disconnect green plug from drivers side of fan shroud. Slide radiator out from the top. Should take no longer than 10 minutes.
Shit that's right, i forgot you need to unbolt the fan, that's what i was thinking of whne blathering about shroud and rad in one piece, need the fan in there too! :rolleyes:

GTSt's must be different to GTR's.........with GTR's there's no need to remove the fan. GTR's have a removable 'section' at the bottom of the fan shroud which unclips and once that's taken off the radiator can be lifted out with the shroud attached and it clears the fan.

My GTSt same as SteveL s GTR. 2 mounting bolts on top , drain water, remove one end of hoses, unplug wiring connector, lift out [ about 3 minutes. no removal of splash guard , fan, etc., etc. They must have kept changing their minds on the assembly line.

Takes longer to drain the water, than anything else.

  • 2 weeks later...

I think you're getting confused with the air-con heat exchanger, it sits directly in front of the radiator and looks a lot like it, I killed my rad last weekand pulled it out (found that half of teh shroud that unclips down the bottom) and it really is a simple exercise to remove.

Now i need to find a replacement radiator, i'd rather a new one, but might have to settle for second hand.

yeah that's exactly what i was confusing it with :Oops:

At a glance it all looked like one part, i pulled my radiator out last week (unclipped the lower part of the shroud, removed the hoses and upper mounts) and had no hassles :cheers:

What's gone wrong with your radiator? leaking?

yeah that's exactly what i was confusing it with :Oops:

At a glance it all looked like one part, i pulled my radiator out last week (unclipped the lower part of the shroud, removed the hoses and upper mounts) and had no hassles :cheers:

What's gone wrong with your radiator? leaking?

Rubber mount up top had perished, I accelerated hard, radiator fell on to the fan and crunch! On stuffed rad, called Nissan and they wanted $962 for a new one, I can't see much point in a 2nd hand one, so i rang around some more and found and aftermarket one for $359 which is far more reasonable. Gotta fix that mount too so it doesn't happen again.

Just went to pick it up and it was the wrong one, guy did some more ringing around and found the right one for $439, but there's a question makr over availability. Some Nissan diesel has the same top and bottom tanks but the core is too tall, might be able to make some Franken-Rad, just waiting for a call back.

Just thru a local radiator mob, Burton Radiators, pretty helpful so far but we'll see how it goes.

picked up my new r32 radiator last week for $352 brand new......the brand was KOYO i think.....looks the same as the nissan one, it works.
Yeah Koyo are supposed to be pretty much atleast as good as the originals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
×
×
  • Create New...