Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:flamed: This problem has me a little worried and confused... I just got my new car, R32 GTS-t (HOORAY!) and it is overheating :P , at first it wouldn't do it all the time, but now it does... its an 89' and has done 84000 k's. It doesnt feel down on power, doesn't blow smoke or have water coming from the exhaust, no coolant in oil, or bubbles in coolant. It will get really hot sometimes...which has me very concerned :warning: ... but then it will drop all of a sudden... which makes me think it is a f***ed thermostat. I know i shouldn't drive it, but i have to get to work, I get the car into speedworks on monday so they should diagnose the problem... hopefully. What do you guys reckon it could be?

Also, after the cooling issue is sorted of course, what do you guys reckon I should do to the car first? front mount, suspension, brakes... It already has an HKS pod and Kakimoto exhaust... the rest is stock... i think

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/74818-r32-cooling-issues/
Share on other sites

you have beed air out? top of intake manifold on rb20/25

Is that the little screw with a yellow "never open when hot" label on the inlet manifold closest to the front end of the car? What do I do, just take it out and put it back in or do I have to run the engine with it off?

Dammit! Shes a still gettin hot. I took the bleed valve off last night, then went for a burn, it was good, then the heat just started to rise, so I limped home hoping it wouldnt get too hot. Thanks for your help anyway GDZ1LA :( Anyone else have any ideas.

Still I may not have done it right and GDZ1LA could be right. Any help welcome.

9.5 times out of 10, if you're not using water, of have none of the other symtoms you say you've checked, you have a partially blocked radiator core. To flush it properly, needs a bit of explanation. Needs to be "reverse flushed." Take it to radiator repairer. They have right equipment and shpuld'nt be very costly. If you MUST do it yourself, I'll [reluctantly] try to write a fair description.

This is all good news as far as im concerned... they are minor repair/replace jobs compared to replacing a head or gasket.. cheaper too. By all rights if I had a cracked head/ or gasket damage, i'd be experiencing a major lack of power right? as well as milky oil, possibly steamy, smokey exhaust yeh?

To do it right, reverse flushing in car takes a bit of explaining, so I thought, seeing it's so easy to remove radiator, why not do that, turn it upside down, and use as much water pressure as you can, from bottom to top, allowing the water to escape, alternatively, from the filler neck, and the top hose connection point. That would do a pretty good job.

Put the water hose in the bottom radiator hose point, and seal it as much as possible, so that all the pressutr water has to travel up through the core to get to top tank. This is the opposite direction of flow to when radiator is in car, which is why it is more effective in removing blockages than flushing top to bottom.

ahHHhhh HUH!! mine is doing that as well! the temp gauge is reading just a bit above half, is this actualli normal/acceptable? it never rises above this point and isnt using any water, even after lots of hard driving, so would this be just a partially blocked radiator i presume?

just dont like looking at it so high , when my bro's R32 is reading below half!

thanks for any advice guys.

ps- josh what colour if your 32? seems like there is quite a R32 "population" explosion in perth ;) mines black coupe, and black sedan for my bro.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a vb in honour of the car comming back
    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
×
×
  • Create New...