R32 cooling issues

[Josh]

Forgot to ask, where does the temp gauge sit in ur R32 skylines? I am curious. Mine sits just over half and stays there, it is a lot better than it overheating so its not a real issue atm

[Cubes]

The R32's have two bleed points.

One on the plenum and one that is T'd off the top heater hose on the firewall.

I found when I dropped ALL of the coolant I wasn't able to bleed it enough via the plenum, the heater hose bleed point did the trick.

I've got many radiators up and running again by using Jax's reverse fluch method.

But what I also do is hook up the compressor to the overflow nipple under the radaitor cap. I then pulse the air through the radiator as the water is flowing through the core.

The compressed air blasting through the core does the trick nicely.

One VL radiator I did had massive scales of rust fly out, they were that large that at first I thought it was bark chip.

Faily that also check out the clutch fan. Ensure its not leaking where the shaft joins the clutch assembly. Also once warm and stationary with 2000rpm it should cycle in and out every minute or so. It should be very noisy first thing in the morning.

[Josh]

Hah I didnt know that they had two bleed points! That will help me in future when I have to flush them. That would explain why it didnt take the full amount to fill up... Cheers mate

[flagger]

Forgot to ask, where does the temp gauge sit in ur R32 skylines? I am curious. Mine sits just over half and stays there, it is a lot better than it overheating so its not a real issue atm

mine is just slightly over hafway too, running stock radiator. havnt overheated yet

[Cubes]

The stock guage doesn't read temperature linear.

Now I have the PFC I can see the guage reads around half from as low as 75degree's to as high as 102degree's.

Once its over 102degree's it creeps up slightly then once it hits 105degree's it very very quickly starts heading towards the H.

The heater hose bleed point is just behind the inlet's rocker cover. Its a bit of a pain in the arse to get to especially when you are bleeding it with the engine hot (as I do).

I've attached a small fuel hose, bolt in the end with a couple of hose clamps. Much easier to bleed.

I have also cut up a radiator cap and inserted the lid of a pump bottle that has had its white bit removed. Its a tight fit and also has silicon around it to prevent leakage.

All I do is screw the pump bottle in that has had its end cut off and fill the water level up above the plenum and heater hose bleed point.

Keep the pump bottle water level higher than the bleed points at all times and its very easy and quick to ensure a 100% bleed.

To completely remove the coolant from the system you really have to remove the bolt that's located under the turbo's water feed/return what ever it is.

Roughly 1/4 up at the back of passengers side of the block.

Check out an R31 or VL's manual, the blocks are basically identical.

[J_R32]

Mine is dark blue coupe, I can be seen around wanneroo and beechboro (Two places where I live) Where are you?

i live on the other side of town in myaree, but i drive around bentley alot.

so your skyline doesnt climb after it reaches a bit above half? i think we should be ok like that, fingers cross, might flush it b4 summer comes along.

[Jax]

Yes, as CUBES says, use the compressed air thing. I always do, never had a failure. Did'nt mention it,'cause not everyone has air available. If you have, you can do as good a job as a Rad shop.