Jump to content
SAU Community

Slightly over boosting

grandmasterb

By grandmasterb,
in Tasmania

 Share

Recommended Posts

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted

Ok so i took the car for a run yesterday and thought it was off the show (not able to keep it straight and just lighting up the rears) anyway i dont have my boost gauge yet and wasn't 100% sure what it was running. Figured it to be around 12 -14psi so i borrowed Griffo's boost gauge and "BOY" was i off. :innocent:

The little old RB20 was boosting at slightly over 1.5 bar. :chairshot

So we turned the boost back to 1bar and is MUCH better, still very easy to loose the rear end from time to time, just have to moderate it with the right foot. :confused:

Im going for 240rwk's once i get the FMIC on an exhaust but i think TimmyB can back me up on this as i think i have one of the toughest sounding cars getting around on Tassie roads :Pimp2:

Pics to come guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/75614-slightly-over-boosting/
Share on other sites
grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry guys was in a bit of a rush when i posted this yesterday. Realised i had posted it in the wrong section and then reposted it in here. Just realised though that i cut over half the original post off.

Hope this helps to clear it up a little now.

Car mods as follows:

TD-06 turbo with external waste gate (50MM i believe)

bigger injectors (with extra injector for high boost)

GReddy injector equaliser control (is what i've been told it is)

aftermarket ECU

electronic boost controller

upgraded fuel pump and swirl pot

adjustable fuel regulator

Z32 AFM

GReddy BOV (currently venting to atmosphere

GTR intercooler (replacing stock intercooler) want a FMIC

3' dump from the turbo into rear muffler which is standard at the moment, with extractors.

GTR rotors and calipers (is what i've been told)

irridium plugs and upgraded ignition coils

rods and pistons have been done as well as bearings (is what i was told)

set of race springs and HKS front and rear strut brace.

Apexi air intake with modded CAI /Heat shielding (thanks to SAU thread)

button racing clutch and locked diff (want to change diff)

Have not dyno'd the car yet as im still getting it on the road and everything sorted out. When i do i'll let you know how it goes.

Talking to the tuner yesterday and he said if didn't have a couple of hundred kilowats after driving it he said he would eat his hat

Can not wait to get it on the road although i have been re thinking it as a daily driver now!!!

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That's a nice looken Gts-t. that's a sweet colour, is it factory?

Cheers dude. I love the colour as well thats what first attracted (can i say that about a car :confused: ) me to the car.

As far as i know its not a stock colour. It was resprayed in Japan. You should see it in person its looks even better.

Haven't had time to give it a wash and polish. But will give it a full detail when time permits then post some more pics. :Pimp2:

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
wow the way you were talkin when you said u were gettin a car i thought you were gettin a stock car, impressive to say the least!

BWAHAHAHAHAH yeah for a while so did i PHat MR30.

Hopefully have it at the drift event next weekend for people to have a looksy.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
on the boost thing, it could possibly be the diaphram in the wastegate is faulty??? that caused a mate of mines rotor to eventually see his boost guage off the scale and pop the motor

Nah its cool man its all sorted now.

Borrowed riffo's gauge and we went for a run, realising that it was just over 1.5 bar set off the EBC. Has now been turned WAY back and all good.

BUGGER for your mate, not good at all.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
ah good... yeh it was a 30psi boost gauge and it was reading like 40 or more, checked it again to see if the guage was faulty and yeh not cool killed the turbo and motor.

BUGGER, not good at all mate. Thats why i borrowed Griffo's gauge to see what was going on. EXTREMLY GLAD i did now :rant:

The general feedback i been getting about the car has been awesome. Everyone loves the way it sounds, got to love a screamer :Pimp2:

  • 1 month later...
grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok so car should be on the road next weekend, all finished and better than ever.

So if anyone know's or is interested in a very nice and one of a kind Skyline then hit me up as i got something that will tickle ya fancy :Pimp2:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...