Jump to content
SAU Community

Cam Shaft Caps **HELP**

superclarkey

By superclarkey,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

superclarkey Enthusiast

superclarkey

Posted
Posted

on my RB20DET as I was removing a few of the camshaft caps and the bolts were very tight in the cap, i.e. I couldn't pull them out, so I had to try and remove them so I could clean the shank up other wise torque settings would have been very wrong :wack: (so it was not the tread that was tight, but the shank welded to the inside of the cap)

I soaked the bolts for about 5 days with wd40 and tried heat and everything, i was told to just undo them and they should be fine, well there are not fine the caps are twised :eek: so you have idea of how tight they were griping.

I had to pull the bolts out from the caps with a hydralic puller, they were stuck solid, i don't know how i undid them in the first place :chairshot

Is this common problem?

I had to really go at them to remove the caps, and its damaged the caps only, can these be replaced? i've been told that that i can't and the engine is scrap :eek:

how do i go about replacing them, there is 4 caps on the inlet cam thats gone :P

I'm so hoping that the head is not scrap.

do i need to have them bored to fit to my head?? can new caps be bought from nissan?

Any help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76178-cam-shaft-caps-help/
Share on other sites
SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted

The caps are machined (line-bored) as part of manufacture of the head and the bad news is they aren't available separately as spare part. If they're twisted as bad as you say then I'm afraid your up for another head.

The reason the bolts stick is that crap (mainly carbonised oil residue) build up between the shank of the bolt and the inside of the cap. When you try to undo the bolt the crap basically jams the bolt solid in the cap.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
Could i not get some caps off another engine and get them line bored too the rest of them?

Yes that's possible...if you were a bit closer I have a head there you could have for free.

Edit: get some quotes first....you might find the machining will be more expensive than sourcing a secondhand head.

superclarkey Enthusiast

superclarkey

Posted
  • Author
Posted

**bangs head up wall** thanx for the kind offer dude :cheers:

Its so hard to get parts for the RB20's over in the uk, totaly sucks.

I'm just glad i didn't send the head of before i made this error, one thing is scraping a head, scraping a ported and polished head is just stupid :)

I may send the head off to Abbey Motorsport (uk) tomorrow and see if they can't do something with it.

If it costs me £500 it would be cheaper then getting a second hand head.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
My dead mint head :cheers: R.I.P

Well you might be lucky and they can do something with it. If the worst comes to worst let me know and I can ship you over some spare caps from this other head as replacements (you pay shipping, of course :) ). But you'd still have to have the bores machined/honed to suit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • nxh
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By nxh · Posted

      Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • GTSBoy
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • timmy94
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By timmy94 · Posted

      I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...