Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

acutally, a easier way of doing it to remove the back cover on the pump, and remove the little vane/pump/thingy inside. it slide right out so you dont need to machine anything.

then reassemble the pump and block off the outlet.

steve

It doesn't look as tidy thought does it? :cheers:

Why?  I use the rear stage (no HICAS) to run power steering fluid through the cooler.:P

Hey SK, how have you got this all plumbed up? Have you removed the HICAS pump, and are the lines running from the Pwr str pump -> cooler -> reserviour(bypassing the hicas pump completely)?

I'm having a look at mine at the moment, and can't decide what the easiest way to connect the line from the pump to the cooler is :confused: have you used the standard line that runs past the sump to run fluid to the cooler? or put a new line in?

Any help appreciated

:P

i think what SK was talking out was, instead of blocking the hicus outlet, you connect it to a cooler.

basicly its          hicas pump-->cooler-->reserviour

therefore the ps pump does the steering, and the hicas pump does the cooling.

steve

That's the concept, but it is actually even easier to do.

1. The pipework that comes from the rear (HICAS) power steering pump goes under the engine and up the inner guard to the HICAS solenoids under the brake master cylinder. When you remove the solenoids, leave the pipework under the engine.

2. When the hydraulic fluid comes back from the rear steering rack, it goes through the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir. So when you remove the rear steering rack and the pipe work from front to rear, leave the pipework that goes around the radiator to the power steering cooler.

3. Connect the pipe in #1 to the pipe in #2 using a peice of 1/2" rubber hose, so that the power steering fluid comes out of the rear (HICAS) pump, under the engine, through the power steering cooler and back into the reservoir.

Simple:cheers:

PS; one day I will take a picture of the R32 GTST set up and post it up, save thousands of words being written.

so i've spent some time with an advanced image ceation tool (mspaint :)), and drawn up some pics.

Firstly, is this how the setup is before it is modified (i'm going from memory here)?...

And secondly, is this where you've joined the hose (ie - hicas pump removed completely)?

:)

Michael

  • 6 months later...

Hi,

I went ahead and removed the rear vane from my R32 GTSt steering pump. When you open it up at the back the van looks like a small steel wheel with a number of slots cut out of it where a number of little steel squares slot in. I removed this whole component but have later been told (by SSS at Girraween) that I should have removed the little sqaures and re-installed the wheel.

My pump is f'd at the moment. I assume because I did not re-install the wheel (maybe the tension on the belt was too high?) - don't know.

I want to take this opportunity to install a single chamber pump - has anyone installed an RB30 pump? Is it a straight fit besides swapping the pulley over? I think I heard that I need to put some washers between the bracket of the pump and the block of the engine to space it out because of the twin-cam head. Is this the case (it doesn't sound right to me).

Thanks.

Hi, I'll be removing the HICAS probably this weekend if everything goes to plan.

Just wondering, would it be possible to hook the rear outlet of the power steering pump directly to the second inlet/outlet on the power steering reservoir instead of blocking it?

I can’t use the SK’s idea of using it to run power steering fluid through the cooler as it is leaking somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know🙄 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole🤣
    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
×
×
  • Create New...