Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've got an adjustable exhaust cam gear, set to 4' retard.

I don't see the stock ECU having too much trouble still running the show but some form of ECU control would see maximum results.

I'm going off memory here....... it was 215rwkw before the gear & ~224rwkw after, however this was when I still had my Unichip/stock ECU combo & my AFM was maxing out very badly! It was a peak of ~224 but with huge dips in the power curve :) With a Z32 AFM or a MAP based ECU bigger gains "could" be achieved.

I'd say a 10rwkw (peak power) gain is about what you should expect. But you'll probably lose a few kw down low.

Originally posted by rev210

You still haven't put that cement in the boot yet have you? I told you put the cement in the boot , so do it NOW!:)

:lol: :D Don't need the cement anymore! I've got traction in the form of 255/40/17 RE540S's. They're no Nitto or BFG street drag radial but they sure are an improvement on the Falkens I had :uh-huh: It still will w/spin a touch but nothing like it did before!!!

rev210,

With exhaust gear alone I'd expect 8-10rwkw, with inlet gear about 5rwkW more, but you'll loose the NVCS. I think the settings are 2deg advance inlet, 4deg retard exhaust. Will make more difference with bigger turbo or cams, but still a decent increase for the price.

Which brand were you thinking? JustJap can get the OS Giken ones, $300 each.

See'ya:burnout:

QUOTE]Originally posted by macka

whatsisname thats a nice 1/4 mile time on that boost!

were u using the stickys to get the 2.1 60ft?

Thanks mate. Believe it or not I actually ran those numbers on my old Falken ZIEX ZE502's (255/40/17). With the extra 40+rwkw & the sticky 540's I'm hoping for @ least mid/high 12's.

I'd like to 60' in the 1.9-2.0 range with a mild launch.

Back to the topic of cam gears...... As GTS-t VSPEC mentioned, bigger gains will be had on engines with turbo &/or cam upgrades.

If anyone is wondering how the RB25DET feels minus NVCS, just disconnect the elec connector to the solenoid & go for a drive! Obviously if you're planning on a complete cam swap then a decent compromise minus NVCS can be found.

whatsisname,

My plan is to loose the NVCS, but I will be doing cams and bigger turbo, for light to mild tunes then keeping the NVCS makes sense.

Is that the factory turbo your running? Very impressive times, the R rated tyres should gain you a couple of tenths.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

rev210,

With exhaust gear alone I'd expect 8-10rwkw, with inlet gear about 5rwkW more, but you'll loose the NVCS. I think the settings are 2deg advance inlet, 4deg retard exhaust. Will make more difference with bigger turbo or cams, but still a decent increase for the price.

Which brand were you thinking? JustJap can get the OS Giken ones, $300 each.

See'ya:burnout:

Probably get HKS from nengun for $180. I noticed the debate over cam gears and I think the bagging people were giving the HKS gears was bollocks. They use their own gears on their drag cars and I've yet to hear of a propper example of a failure and a reason related to actual design/manufacture (one that makes sense). I'll do this along with the light underdriven front pulley when I do the timing belt.

I don't think on most cars you'll have a problem with the HKS gears, but even sub-zero who sell them said they weren't as good at the other brands. Nengun has them cheap, but by the time you add freight I can buy them just as cheap here. The HKS drag cars are hardly going to use anyone elses gears, even if they were better, but they might get replaced frequently. I think the HKS ones will be fine, I'll most likely use them on mine, if they break then I wont use them again, simple as that.

See'ya:burnout:

Originally posted by GTS-t VSPEC

whatsisname,

My plan is to loose the NVCS, but I will be doing cams and bigger turbo, for light to mild tunes then keeping the NVCS makes sense.

Is that the factory turbo your running? Very impressive times, the R rated tyres should gain you a couple of tenths.

See'ya:burnout:

I've seen a few GTS25t owners that have ditched the NVCS in favour of aftermarket cams & adjustable gears, all with good results. These cars all had bigger turbos & a host of other modifications. The JMS 300+rwkw GTS25t (standard internals) is one of these examples. It uses the earlier non-NVCS RB25DE inlet cam.

My car has a T3/T4. It's not a high flow of the standard turbo but a total replacement with bigger housings. I'm unsure of the exact specs?

The 1/4 #'s in my sig' are pre..... R tyres, Microtech LT12, custom inlet pipe work (nil AFM), cam gear & a few other minor things. No major changes but it all adds up. Oh yeah & some very good tuning too :mad:

whatsisname,

Yes I was told to loose the NVCS for higher horsepower applications. I will be running the GT30 turbo, so I expect some good gains with the cams and cam gears.

Is the Microtech LT12 the new plug'n'play, what do you think of it?

Sounds like a nice setup, I got rid of my AFM aswell, haven't noticed any loss of fuel consumption, cause it was pretty shit before.

See'ya:burnout:

GTS-t VSPEC,

The LT12 is one of Microtech's new laptop programmable ECU's that can be configured for the GTS25t. It comes loaded with base maps to suit (like the PFC) & then plugs straight into the factory loom. There's one extra sensor that can be installed for total functionality (intake temp) but it's very simple & taps into the existing AFM wiring.

I'm really happy with my LT12 :mad: The engine is responsive regardless of throttle position or rev range, it idles nicely, makes good power & hasn't cost me all that much to get it installed & tuned. Fuel economy I don't take much notice of but it's @ least on par with the stock ECU.

whatsisname,

Thanks for the info, it's good to see that the engine managment systems are improving and becoming competitive in price and functionality. I'm using the new Wolf, and have been equally impressed with it.

See'ya:burnout:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...