Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Maybe 280ZX - from a wrecker.

Are you having troubles with your current one? I was - it would just cut out, actually, wouldn't start at engine start. So I applied the first rule of auto repairs - hit it with a bigger hammer! And it started working again. But I guess I really should replace it soon.

Maybe 280ZX - from a wrecker.

Are you having troubles with your current one? I was - it would just cut out, actually, wouldn't start at engine start. So I applied the first rule of auto repairs - hit it with a bigger hammer! And it started working again. But I guess I really should replace it soon.

Yep, mine is the same, wont start on start up but seems to be ok when moving.

I was told that you have to be careful of the pressure output? if too much, can damage your efi. If not enough, wont work anyway.

Is this correct?

Certainly, if the pressure is too low, it is unlikely the engine will run well. But the maximum pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator (little cylinder thing in the middle of the fuel rail), so even if the pump is pumping too hard, the engine should still run OK.

The pump will pump at set pressure, unless the Regualtor is set higher. most pumps can go 100+ psi im pressure, but flow will not rise the same.

The only downside is. if the Fuel return line is to small you will run ritch as it cannot keep up with the xtra flow of the Pump.

haha thats how my pump said its goodbyes - refusing to pump every now and then

i used to keep a hammer in the car to hit the pump as i was hanging out of the car turning the key to start, i got it down to a fine art :)

but anyway, i ended up buying a new r30 fuel pump then about 4 months later boxing it back up and throwing in a 910 for the rb20

i've still got the stocko pump if your keen, as i said its still new, maybe 2 thou kays of use, PM if ya keen

and on the same sorta topic ive got a bunch of r30 stuff laying around if anyones keen eg motor, Ti seats, struts etc.

shameless plug to me hehe

You got a r30 motor you wanna get rid of?

i juts bought a l24 r30 for 300$ and i wouldn't mind having a spare motor incase.

let me kno

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...