Jump to content
SAU Community

fuel pump for R30

cmc

By cmc,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Maybe 280ZX - from a wrecker.

Are you having troubles with your current one? I was - it would just cut out, actually, wouldn't start at engine start. So I applied the first rule of auto repairs - hit it with a bigger hammer! And it started working again. But I guess I really should replace it soon.

cmc Rookie

cmc

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Maybe 280ZX - from a wrecker.

Are you having troubles with your current one? I was - it would just cut out, actually, wouldn't start at engine start. So I applied the first rule of auto repairs - hit it with a bigger hammer! And it started working again. But I guess I really should replace it soon.

Yep, mine is the same, wont start on start up but seems to be ok when moving.

I was told that you have to be careful of the pressure output? if too much, can damage your efi. If not enough, wont work anyway.

Is this correct?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Certainly, if the pressure is too low, it is unlikely the engine will run well. But the maximum pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator (little cylinder thing in the middle of the fuel rail), so even if the pump is pumping too hard, the engine should still run OK.

stagefumer11 Rising Star

stagefumer11

Posted
Posted

The pump will pump at set pressure, unless the Regualtor is set higher. most pumps can go 100+ psi im pressure, but flow will not rise the same.

The only downside is. if the Fuel return line is to small you will run ritch as it cannot keep up with the xtra flow of the Pump.

stu_r30 Collaborator

stu_r30

Posted
Posted

haha thats how my pump said its goodbyes - refusing to pump every now and then

i used to keep a hammer in the car to hit the pump as i was hanging out of the car turning the key to start, i got it down to a fine art :)

but anyway, i ended up buying a new r30 fuel pump then about 4 months later boxing it back up and throwing in a 910 for the rb20

i've still got the stocko pump if your keen, as i said its still new, maybe 2 thou kays of use, PM if ya keen

L-24NuttEr Apprentice

L-24NuttEr

Posted
Posted
and on the same sorta topic ive got a bunch of r30 stuff laying around if anyones keen eg motor, Ti seats, struts etc.

shameless plug to me hehe

You got a r30 motor you wanna get rid of?

i juts bought a l24 r30 for 300$ and i wouldn't mind having a spare motor incase.

let me kno

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
×
×
  • Create New...