Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

started at approximately 4pm (sat afternoon)... finished approximately 7am (sun morning)... me, sparksta (brandon), and another friend of mine worked on the car all night.

We installed the following:

-nismo 555 injectors

-HKS gt-rs turbo kit

-unplugged and reset the PowerFC

(still have yet to install the PowerFC boostCntrlR

After finishing the install we started the car up... let it run for about 15 minutes... then decided to take a drive...

turbo would spool to about 5psi then begin to stutter/power loss/no response

took the car back to the house... checked vacuum lines, re-adjusted fuel pressure (43psi-w/o vacuum)... disconnected battery, drained power (pumped the brakes a few times)... reconnected battery and let the car run for another 15 minutes.

Round 2: drove the car up the street a block.... everything good... then POP... loose intercooler coupler popped off.... took the car back to the house... tightened the coupler back down and double checked the others.

Round 3: drove the car up the block... everything is running smooth... hit boost at 12psi... came to a stop... checked the FC and knock reached 165!!!!!

Drove the car back home off boost and parked it... The car hasn't been tuned in any shape or form yet.

I'm not sure if i need to set the PowerFC to let it know the injectors are bigger or what....

Just thought I'd let you guys know how the progress was going... I've got plenty of pix and i'll post them as soon as I get them uploaded.

Any thoughts/criticism/compliments are as always welcome.

-Andrew

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76720-installed-new-toys-need-help/
Share on other sites

yes you need to adjust latency for larger injectors, without doing so it assumes stock capacity and latenly. not sure if this would make it lean out or richen up by default but it sounds very unsafe. knock of 165 is pretty extreme, i get worried when i see 40+. best to as a bare minmum grab the powerfc manual and work out the new latency for your injectors and plug in the injector settings, that should stop things blowing up at least. then get to a tuner and check with a wideband to make sure its not leaning out.

forgive my noobishness... but could you explain how i can change the latency of the new injectors?

What would you suggest I do about the knock? Before this install the highest i've ever seen it go was 70... it usually doesn't hit above 20.

Any other insight you could share is worth its weight in gold.

thanks

-andrew

the power fc runs sr20's lean as when you plug them in, they need to be tuned. we did the same mods to a mates 180sx, and it did the exact same thing. when we got it to the tuner, it was running lean as. after tuning, pulled 244rwkw.

go get it tuned asap.

cheers

Linton

does ANYONE know the lag time i need to set on the PFC with nismo550 injectors?????

also correct me if i'm wrong....

in order to figure out duty you take the original injector size/new injector size=duty?

for example: 370/550=.667=67% duty?

thanks guys

-Andrew

Yep,

370/550 = .67 so 67% - This is used for cold start's so the car starts and idle's etc, so you don't get a dump of 550cc injectors into you'r engine.

As for the MS this depends on what value's on the fuel map you wish to use, and how much duty cycle the injectors will run at. I'd start at 0.10ms - This wil richen it up a little.

As the other's said you really need a sniffer to measure the afr's.

As for the Knock: SETTINGS > IGN/INJ > and down arrow on the ignition will retart the ignition timing over the whole map, but this does not save to the power FC it will be reset after you switch the ignition off. Try pulling -5 deg and take it for a run if it still knock's then try - 10. then you will know how much ignition advance its got.... too much!

hope that helps,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
×
×
  • Create New...