Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you want some cheapos Chris....I run Simex sm8000 i think they are. They hold up pretty well for me in the wet and dry. I was giving em a mild test before in the wet, and they were gripping well.....easy to control the throttle to bring on the wheelspin if thats your thing :D

They are about $120 each when i got mine in January...

Toyos are a good brand though.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1408420
Share on other sites

mmm, they seem cheap enough

Darren, where yours 16's? What are the sidewalls like? They will be going on the front first up, and I don't want a squirmy tyre on the front, it feels like shit if its like that

Thinking of going 205/55, but as the rims are 7.5" wide, it will stretch them out a bit and give it a bit more feedback through the wheel. I have run 205 on the front before, and to be honest, it felt better than the 225's as they had less sidewall flex, and braking was just as good. They are much cheaper too!

225's are a minimum on the back, even then grip is marginal

RaseR - what are the sidewalls like on the 17's?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1409397
Share on other sites

i had transpath something or other on my old car, they gripped well since the car was close to stock, so ok for the price.. a bit slippery in the wet though!

and i think they are quite soft, as mine wore out to the thread in 15000kms :P :innocent:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1409464
Share on other sites

I had a set of those on my car for about 3 years and never had any problems with them. Good grip on dry roads, decent grip on wet roads. Had a few hairy moments with 'moderate' take offs at traffic lights in the wet and also with a car load of people though! But definetely good for that price.

"The internet? Is that thing still around?"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1409471
Share on other sites

getting two on saturday, will post results

Its was either a Toyo at $165, a Falken 326 at $160, or BF Goodrich at $220

I think for the $100 saving over the BF's, they are worth a shot. If they have soft sidewalls, I'll just run them on the back!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1409824
Share on other sites

Hey Chris,The sidewalls on the Toyo TSW have more curvature then my previous Kumhos which were squarer (note, I have 8" wide rims on 235s and run 32psi). They still seem to be relatively stiff though, with no more noticable flex then previously - I'm only running them on the rear though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1409850
Share on other sites

mmm, they seem cheap enough

Darren, where yours 16's? What are the sidewalls like? They will be going on the front first up, and I don't want a squirmy tyre on the front, it feels like shit if its like that

Thinking of going 205/55, but as the rims are 7.5" wide, it will stretch them out a bit and give it a bit more feedback through the wheel. I have run 205 on the front before, and to be honest, it felt better than the 225's as they had less sidewall flex, and braking was just as good. They are much cheaper too!

225's are a minimum on the back, even then grip is marginal

RaseR - what are the sidewalls like on the 17's?

Yeah, my size is 225/50/16 all round. My front rims are 7.5" wide also. Dont really know if you can call em squirmy or not...they do me just fine in the dry or wet. I run them front and back. My last tyres were 205's on the front, and they feel the same as these 225's on now.

Agree 225's are minimal for the back.

I guess how much you spend depends on how hard you want to push your car then, eh Chris? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1410475
Share on other sites

Well, first impressions are very good

Only done about 300kms on them, all wet, and they are very good. Will post up results as they get a few kms on them.

Extremely quiet at highway speeds

Pretty happy, decent sidewall too, so they handle well up front

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1418389
Share on other sites

Yeah, got the Toyo's

Went just for a front set, I hate buying a full set of tyres I have never tried before!

I want some dry weather dammit!! They seem really good so far, dry tests will be the key once they have a few kms on them

They seem to be a reasonably hard compound too, so should get a few kms out of them. Once they are scrubbed in a bit I will throw them on the back and see if they are worth getting for the rear. If they are I might get a set of Toyo Trampio's for the front, they look to be a really good tyre for the front

Will post up results!

Hows the 3L in the wet? Would be a bit of fun wouldn't it! I remember going for a lap around the block in the dry and it was pretty taily with the mech. diff in it. Mine is and it has half the torque lol!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1418852
Share on other sites

Very interesting in the wet...your able to keep the revs down and still get some tractions...just putt away and let the torque pull :P Mechanical diff hepls traction though..much safer i think than my old viscous diff...

IF you like wet weather well....its damn fun and scary at times :rofl:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1419413
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Well, about a month on these now, quite impressed!

Easily the best value tyre I have had on my car, getting a set on the rear in a few weeks.

Feel much better than the FM901's they replaced, very quiet too!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/76882-toyo-tranpath-sw/#findComment-1463381
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...