Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I'm getting inserts and tabs NC machined/punched for the lock bars. A lot of investment to get the price down for each item. 50-100 of each item so the cost of holding stock goes into the many hundreds of dollars.

Yep, it's a risk to hold so much stuff, but I'm yet to tap the NS market so should be OK. Looks like I'll be holding 1400 worth of materiel alone by the time the machining is done, but accuracy, strength, finish and fabrication time all improve out of sight.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

Sorry for the late reply and big delay. We had the cam gear fitment put on over the weekend and after testing we made no extra power whatsoever. My cams were dialed in at the factory position and made the best power there. Any more advanced and we lost power everywhere else but gained like 2rwkw in the top end.

There are some pics of the unit fitted below (can get better ones if you like). Very nice little invention/concept just a shame the power increase wasn't experienced. Let me know if I can help in any other way or test stuff etc. Dyno chart to come tomorrow when I scan it up, shows unit fitted and no change, then 3 deg advance then 5 deg advance

Pictures: http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/pics/camadjust/page_01.htm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • How have you run it in / what has been done in those 6 hours? Also, you need to do the test hot. You have to load the new motor pretty hard to bed the rings in quickly and properly, doing it on the dyno is best and only takes an hour-ish The other question is.....what were the measured clearances post machining and do they match the specs for the piston and rings
    • Sounds like a good outcome, must be nice to have it working well, and yes everyone seems to top out under 250rwkw with a low mount rb25 so you are in the right ballpark. It really would have been worth setting up the boost controller at the same time, but at least now you can share some back to back data on how much difference holding the gate closed until you need it makes
    • I've done this both ways, I'd use the original loom & swap plugs on the engine side as you'll usually end up changing a lot of those anyway. Series 1 is usually non ABS which requires wiring which I can't remember how to do as haven't done it for over 15 years. The auto inhibitor is easy to bypass or in the meantime you can put it in neutral & unbolt it & tape it somewhere in the bay haha, then just wire reverse lights. I'd go straight to aftermarket ecu. A few basics are built in ignitor coils & reverse the CAS wiring, sort the plugs for whatever injectors & IAC-you can use an adaptor for the neo type otherwise the s1 will still work, use the knock sensors that suit the loom & it'll be pretty much running.  
    • This is for an RB20DET. Sorry for not including that. 
    • Welp, this is where my compression lands after my rebuild. Thoughts? I have ~6 hours on the motor. 
×
×
  • Create New...