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Replacing a Head Gasket on a RBDE.

Cubes

By Cubes,
in General Maintenance

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Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Ok ppls whats involved.

Do i have to remove the cams when doing so?

If so is there any hassle fitting NA cams? is it as simple as just bolting in the NA cams over the T cams? no shimming involved?

I'm also going to do all of the heaterhoses fuel line hoses etc etc.

Everything.. So i don't have to touch it again.

I found out that Autobarn etc. now have the Skyline R32 radiator hose listings in their books now.. :mad:

05-1622 Top hose

05-1623 Lower Hose.

Damn.

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MrMayhem Mentor

MrMayhem

Posted
Posted

pretty straight forward time consuming adventure

na cams ... why

I have a set here shorter duration than the turbo set i wouldnt mess with them

theres tw lil bolts from the head to the block both back corners make sure you dont miss those lil guys.

make sure you put the timing belt back on correctly..

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

There's more to the water hoses than just top / bottom radiator hoses. There are about 15 in all - I know, I did a head gasket earlier in the year after one of the hoses under the manifold allowed the contents of the cooling system to venture to other parts of the engine bay. About $400 worth :eek:

And you wouldn't believe the stuff you have to remove to get the head off.

While you're about it, replace the welsh plugs with brass ones.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

No, you don't need to remove the cams. But you do need to remove the inlet plenum, coz there's a little bolt at the front of the head that's impossible to get out with the manifold in place. And remove the turbo from the exhaust manifold.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
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Posted

HOPEFULLY!.

I don't have to replace the head gasket.

I had a CO2 coolant test done today and came up negative.

Apparently if you get air in these suckers especially if you remove the heater hoses they are a pig to go the air out.

He used a header tank to raise the water above the plenium chamber and them idled it for ages, he got most of the big bubbles out and then told me to take it for a good drive.

So I drove to Victor Harbour.

Cam back attached my own Header tank and then idled it again and used the bleed screw.

I also dropped the damn bleed screw under near the alternator and had my other half with the hose topping up the header tank as I looked for the bolt for 10 god damn minutes. argg.

Well after the bleed there seems to be no bubbles.

HOPEFULLY... It is fixed.

8th of Jan I'm getting a Block Powerflush and radiator rod/clean so i'll get him to do another CO2 test.

One thing is though since i've replaced my thermostat with a VL one which is apparently rated at 76degrees which is the same as the stock one.

It sits on 1/4 and with the aircon on or in heavy traffic/ or gunning it raises to 1/2, maybe this is a cooling problem due to the radiator who knows.

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