Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nissan designed the vacuum hose for the fuel pressure regulator supply to be nice and short for very good reasons. That is response, the short hose means the fuel pressure regulator responds to changes in the plenum pressure (vacuum or boost) very quickly. Plus reliability, the hose is nice and short therefore less chance of it cracking or being broken.

Firstly, by sticking a long vacuum hose (to the boost gauge in the cabin) you are introducing a dampening effect of the boost/vacuum changes on the fuel pressure regulator. This means it responds slower to changes. Not a good idea.

Secondly, you are introducing a huge increase in potential for failure. Loosing the boost supply to the fuel pressure regulator can be catastrophic. Let's do some numbers;

The fuel pressure regulator is set for 38 psi above boost (that's ~standard for an RB)

You are running 20 psi of boost.

That means 58 psi in the fuel rail.

The hose to the boost gauge splits

You loose 20 psi of fuel pressure

The fuel rail pressure drops to 38 psi less the 20 psi of boost = (effectively) 18 psi at the injector outlet

The fuel flow drops (38 psi versus 18 psi) by ~35%

What was a nice safe 11.5 to 1 air fuel ratio drops to 15.5 to 1

You now have 6 pistons with holes in them after less than 10 seconds of full power running

Personally I see no good reason to take that sort of risk.

This is not the same as the vacuum supply to the boost gauge splitting when it is connected to the plenum (not in line with the fuel pressure regulator). It that happens then some boost will escape, not much as its small hose. But the injectors will continue to squirt the same amount of fuel. This means you will have slightly rich running, which as everyone knows is much, much safer than huge lean running.

As for Blitz/HKS/Apex etc not telling you the wrong thing, give me a break. They have only one diagram for all engines! And its been the same one for 10 years. If they told you the best plumbing for all engines they would have to have hundreds of drawings and they would have to be updated every time a new engine/vacuum system was introduced. They are simply not going to do that, so they rely on the simplest and most common. Every turbo car has a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, plumb it in there it’s the same for all cars. One drawing will do then, thank you very much.

But we on SAU know better than that and we can share that detailed knowledge on Skylines with you. Take advantage of it or not, I don't really care, it's your engine after all.

:(

  • 1 month later...

Sorry to bring an old thread up but I've had a look into this and it appears my boost gauge has been tapped into a hose between the plenum and fuel rail.

This is in a SR20 so it's a bit different to the RB20.

I'm wondering if anyone knows the location of the best place to tap it into the SR20 - I've had a look around for what's been described but unfortunately I don't know where to find it.

With the RB20 and from the conversations and advice in this thread the place seems to be at the back of the engine near the firewall, just behind the intake where the intercooler pipe goes in. Does that sound right? (Want to make sure before we do my mates car).

  • 1 month later...

my car was idling funny and did not show as much vaccum as normal the last time or two i have driven it, i had a quick look tonight and found out that the vaccum hose going to the FPR from the plenum had come off the FPR.

there has been no unusual knocking shown on the powerfc, so i am assuming it must not have leaned out too much? it has not knocked at all and i have floored it plenty of times, i am running 10psi on rb25...

could there be other damage?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...