Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I'm looking at purchasing a non-turbo Skyline and was -up until a few minutes ago- set on an N/A R33 but I just found an R32 GTS25 (pretty rare I believe) for sale on the net and thought I'd have a look at some numbers and compare the 2 cars.

R33 GTS25 Type S

RB25DE

200 ps (147.10 kw) / 6400 rpm

23.5 kg*m (230.46 N*m) / 4800 rpm

Curb vehicle weight: 1320kg

R32 GTS25 Types

RB25DE

180 ps (132.39 kw) / 6000 rpm

23.0 kg*m (225.55 N*m) / 5200 rpm

Curb vehicle weight: 1320kg

I was surprised to see that both cars (in Type S form at least) weigh the same (1320kg). If that's true why does everyone make R33's out to be so much heavier??

Also what is the reason for the power/torque differences between the RB25DE in the R32 and in the R33?

All these figures were taken from http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/skyline/

R32 - http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/21746/

R33 - http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/21713/

I like the look of both cars, slightly preferring the R32 maybe, but the R33 has a bit more legroom for me (I'm tall).

Thanks. :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77372-r33-gts25-vs-r32-gts25/
Share on other sites

Hey dude, long time no talk.

Regardless of those figures the r32 will definatly be lighter thats for sure.

Id say the power figures would be true as Nissan would of further enginereed the rb25 for the r33 as well.

R33s are heavier yes, but your only talking 100-150kgs really, which isnt heaps.

Alot of people make them out to seem alot heavier due to them being slightly bigger than the 32 but on paper the figures dont show a huge weight difference.

If you can find an r32 rb25de go for it i reckon, pretty rare and obviously you can slot an rb25det straight in there once you gather up the cash!! Thats the best of both worlds :D

Well hope that helped dude... after owning a 180sx both of these cars are roomy which i like but the 33 is slightly larger inside and out.

Jaz ;)

Overal the R33 is larger, and the extra power is most likely due to the rb25de in the r33 coming with the updated vct head.

I think when your considering an NA skyline it really comes down to visual preferance as neither of the cars are overly quick in the scheme of things, so basicly in the end all i can sugest ids go for what suits you best.

I like my R32 GTS25, was a great first car, and why i havent been able to let it go just yet, but eventually you start looking for more grunt.

Note that the non-type S R33 GTS25's are 190PS (139.75kw). Difference between the R33 models is that the type S has a variable capacity muffler. which the non-type S doesn't have, I think that explains the difference.

As for the R32 <> R33 GTS25 type S difference, as someone has said AFAIK the R33 has the VCT head, which the R32 doesn't have. The R32 also doesn't have the variable capacity muffler.

The whole weight thing is a bit of an urban legend, the reality is that the R33 whale actually weighs sod all more than the R32. Just the design makes it look a lot heavier.

Ultimately it comes down to your preference for the exterior/interior design, and the fact that the R33's are newer.

The R32 also runs a slightly shorter diff.

A friend had his TypeM R33 T on a weigh bridge. From memory it was slightly over the 1400kg mark without driver and half a tank of fuel. I can't remember the exact figure.

There's many weight figures floating around.

I remember seeing the R32 GTST TypeM 92 model weigh 1320kg.

The non turbo cheapo's were 1280kg's.

The earlier 89 models weighed a little less and the R33 GTST TypeM weighed 1380kg.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...