Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl..  

Quick question - are turbo timers legal in NSW. If i'm getting a car registered for the first time will it be an issue.

From what I had heard, it's illegal to leave your car when it is running, which is what happens when you use a turbo timer.

Forgive my ignorance :rofl:..

I fairly sure it IS illegal to leave your car while running - but I also had problems getting insurance for my R32 GTR if it had a timer.

I needed a 3 point immobiliser that auto armed with 30 seconds - otherwise no insurance

HtH

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77677-turbo-timers/#findComment-1419622
Share on other sites

yeah, wouldn't mind finding out if this is legal in Victoria also. I have heard it is illegal to have a car running unatennded. Could it have anything to do with the saftey aspect as well? Eg. if you have a accident where its bad, and then turbo timer may keep the engine running and fuel pumping then it might not be too pretty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77677-turbo-timers/#findComment-1419869
Share on other sites

Ok, I contacted the RTA.

Here is the response from them

Anthony,

 

Turbo timers are illegal in NSW.

 

There are a number of reasons.

 

1: Where a vehicle was built to meet the Australian Design Rules, from 1972, it is a defect if the key can be removed from the ignition switch while the engine is still running.

 

2: Under NSW law, it is an offence to leave the engine running on an unattended vehicle.

 

If you have any other enquiries, don't hesitate to reply or contact Technical Enquiries on 1300 137 302.

Regards

Colin Lambert

Technical Enquiries Officer

Just thought everyone might be ineterested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77677-turbo-timers/#findComment-1420631
Share on other sites

oh ok,

well i know it kinda defeats the purpose.. but i have to wait for my turbo timer to count down before i leave the car anyway - cant arm the alarm while the engine's still running..

Its not much of a hassle to leave the car runnin for an extra minute before u leave it.. unless ur in a rush.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77677-turbo-timers/#findComment-1420662
Share on other sites

As has already been noted in this thread, there are three main reasons why turbo timers are a bad idea:

1) They are illegal as your vehicle remains running with the key removed and unattended.

2) They keep the fuel pump primed after an accident. Personally I would prefer not to burn to death.

3) They provide thieves with a very good indicator of which wires to go for. They also often have problems with alarms.

Spend you money on something else that actually improves performance or comfort. If your worried about your turbos, either don't boost the whole way home or go for a slow drive around the block before parking. Personally I just try a drive off-boost for the last couple of minutes of my journey (which, given I live in inner-western Sydney with lots of pedestrians/traffic, is a good idea anyway).

LW.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77677-turbo-timers/#findComment-1420690
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
    • Sorry, just assumed that talk of coloured pads meant EBC red/green/yellow/shit stuff. I don't know the DBA pads, but it's a reasonable bet that they will be OK. DBA make good stuff generally. Those 4000 series rotors I linked to are very good. I may well replace the RDA rotors I have with those when required.
    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
×
×
  • Create New...