Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does the vehicle above have a lsd in the front housing .

If not where can i get one , and if it does what sort of hp will it handle and how do i stop on hard launch and further doen the track, the car giong to one side .

Who knows the best way and where to get a seriuosly tough manual box , are the later skyline 6 speeds any tougher?

Want to drag the vehicle and around 750 - 800 atw.

Any help appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/77972-gtr-r32-diff-and-gear-box-questions/
Share on other sites

Guest DIRTgarage
Does the vehicle above have a lsd in the front housing .

If not where can i get one , and if it does what sort of hp will it handle and how do i stop on hard launch and further doen the track, the car giong to one side .

Who knows the best way and where to get a seriuosly tough manual box , are the later skyline 6 speeds any tougher?

Want to drag the vehicle and around 750 - 800 atw.

Any help appreciated

Front diff not an lsd...id change the rear diff before i looked at the front...both front and rear 1.5 way cusco diff are the way to go.

Pfitzner manual box is ideal if its purely a track car...otherwise if it sees street use then id lean towards a 5 speed OS giken gearset with input shaft.

Front diff not an lsd...id change the rear diff before i looked at the front...both front and rear 1.5 way cusco diff are the way to go.

Pfitzner manual box is ideal if its purely a track car...otherwise if it sees street use then id lean towards a 5 speed OS giken gearset with input shaft.

Thank's for your suggestions, i was told that the front diff is wshy the car pulls hard to one side when going down the strip, it needs to be LSD.

Cusco ? Who or where do i get these?

Why the rear first?

Guest DIRTgarage
Thank's for your suggestions, i was told that the front diff is wshy the car pulls hard to one side when going down the strip, it needs to be LSD.

Cusco ? Who or where do i get these?

Why the rear first?

I have had no problems with car pulling hard other than torque steering...easily controlled with steering input...

any jap supplier wiil do for a diff

The car going hard to one side sound more like a suspension problem or handling

It might even be worth check the condition of the std open diff as i killed one at the drags not that long ago (tore it to pieces not pretty)

Its not subframe movement?

 

My bushes have recently got a little sloppy, I noticed the subframe pulling forward on the dyno.

 

Plant the foot and I find it steers the car slightly.

Nah , all little off track ( pardon the pund ) every thing you guys have mentioned is A OK

. The car definetly pulls to the right on a hard launch , and as i increase the hp it's going to do this even more . I believe it's to do with the front diff not bieng LSD. I am going to change it.

What does 1.5 and or 2 mean, in regards to the diff .?

1 way diff only locks up under acceleration. 2 way locks up under acceleration, and decelleration. 1.5 fully locks up under acceleration and partially locks up under decceleration.

if you are going to put 800kw to the ground I would consider possibly a 6 speed sequential hollinger box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...