Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I'm interested in both 180sx and skyline R33

I'm currently leaning towards skyline.

Don't get me wrong, both cars are good.

I would like to assume that the skyline is more expensive to maintain.

But how much more?

which is better in term of value for money, performance to cost/maintainence ...

comfort wise definitely skyline.

found a 1995 skyline with hks coils, pod filter, 134000km selling for $16k

. is the car expensive?

(the car is basically stock)

Thankz

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

- I think for a pretty much stock car you should be able to get a better price than that.

- Have you looked at the S2 R33, imo they look better + are newer..

- you have options whether you want one already sold in Aus - or a fresh import..

- When getting a skyline it will be a newer car generally than a 180sx however will be slightly more expensive..

- pretty much comes down to personal preference..

- i prefer safety over old cars - hence getting skyline with ABS and Dual Airbags.. but that's a personal reason..

- You also want to look at resale price.. if you put an extra 30,000kms on it than your resale will drop..

- are you wanting private or dealer..

If you want down right balls... go a 180sx.

They look hot and go hard, simply because they are lighter than all the skyline range!

If you want interior comfort then a Skyline is worlds apart.

Skylines are a mix of looks, comfort and performance where as the 180sx can look good but is just a very good performance car. Abit older + a boring interior makes the Skyline a better choice in my opinion.

yeh, depends on what you can handle. my mate has a modded 180, 244rwkw. my line has 220rwkw.

the 180 is damn quick, breaks traction on boost, handles and goes like a rocket....but its loud and rattly, bounces over bumps at speed, really really light, steering feels a bit iffy due to the strut set up. but power is like an on/off switch, hits really hard. good engine to work on, lots of room in engine bay. very strong reliable motor.

the 33, is more refined, a bit slower, but not by much, specially with stock turbs, smoother engine, smoother power delivery, its alot easier to cruise in. the interior is much nicer, more bearable. steering and handling is alot better due to the more advanced suspension and the extra weight stops it from bouncing all over the road.

all depends on how much money you have and what you prefer the look of, you can always put an RB in the 180..

cheers

Linton

R32GTR! they cost like 22-28k

i can't afford that, i wish i can though.

how much do u spent on ur skyline r33 gtst per month. fuel etc?

trivial question , how much is the transfer fee for vehicles like that (180/skyline)?

Just got a bank loan for 15k and i don't wanna go overboard with my finance ..

(who doesn't? :))

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...