Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my Stagea. The reason I'm selling it is that I'm now a poor (well sort of) Medical Student and I simply don't need a car like that to drive to Uni everyday, it'll just get scratched in the carpark and that'll only piss me off.

I imported the car myself in August last year. It had an auction grade of 4.5 and 40,000 odd k's on the clock.

I have the full logbook out of Japan. the car now has 76,000km on it and I have serviced it every 5,000km.

The car has cost me well above $23,000 to import, and I have since spent another couple of grand on various things. It just had an auto oil flush and change and it has a brand spanker windscreen imported from NZ for $1000.- in it.

I also have the original exhaust as well as airbox.

There's also a set of HKS lowered springs which the buyer can have.

Anyway here it is:

Nissan Stagea, RS Four V Turbo

Rare silky snow pearl colour

Automatic gearbox

76,000km

Complianced Sept. 2004

REGO UNTIL September included

factory aero/body kit including rear spoiler

factory alloys

turbo timer

Apexi boost gauge

dual airbags

electric everything

cloth interior

dual sunroof

has both cargo barrier net and cover in the boot

"wood grain" type stereo surround

Just came back from a drive to Sydney, that's the first time I've taken the car on a longer than 1 hour drive and fuel consumption was below 11 litres average.

Price $17,900.

You can ring my mobile on 0402222373 or my home number: 07 3879 2284. I'm in Durack, near Archerfield.

Below are some pics INCLUDING ORIGINAL AUCTION SHEET with translation.

In answer to a few questions I've received:

-the car has a 3in catback exhaust, dump etc. are standard

-the car has never seen more than 10PSI boost

-the car will get two new front tyres, that's all it needs for the RWC

-the Stereo in the car is stock. I have a chipped xbox with 120GB HDD (plenty of room for MP3s), LCD screen and Sony headunit in it right now, but that'd be $500.- extra.

Price dropped to $17,900. You won't be able to find a Stagea of this quality anywhere else for that price. There's a good chance though that if I don't sell it by early next week, I'll just keep the car... won't have time to muck around selling it once Uni starts again.

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...