Jump to content
SAU Community

HELP! R33 GTR Poping awfully weird.. *video*

GTR4ever

By GTR4ever,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR4ever Enthusiast

GTR4ever

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

for the past 2 days, ive been cleaning some big mess of wires under the carpet and seats of my car.

guess at one point it had some major audio system on it and the owner never botherd to clean up, so i come & try to install a head unit with some rear speakers and i had to deal with a whole shitload of lose/cut wires!:(

i started it finaly after a few cranks "which is odd" but didnt think of it,i take it out and went for dinner, everything is ok as usual.

later on on my way to home, it almost stalled,the car doesnt have the same power at all and its sound changed to poping and metel-like rumbling.. barf!!

parked it home, turned it off and on again, still the same..

i checked the i/c piping,nothing! :confused:

here is a video, sorry its realy bad, but u could still hear it

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=247DTZ2A

it is stock by the way only an intake & a cat-back "and been runing rich like a MOFO!!:bonk: "

any ideas?

thanx guys,,

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

WetGTR Proficient

WetGTR

Posted
Posted

Sounds like one or more of your spark plugs have fouled up. It happens when your car runs rich or you have been idling a long time. Remove all 6 and check which ones are really black, you'll spot it.

Replace those ones and while they are all out make sure the gaps are correct.

Refit the plugs & she show be sorted out.

WetGTR Proficient

WetGTR

Posted
Posted
spark plugs??

but i didnt even put 100 klm on em they r new ngks and gaped to 0.8

btw...

 

you got the sweetest car!

I HATE YOU!!

Thanks for the complient - I think.... :confused:

Could you of cut some wires that you shouldn't have, maybe a sensor wire, ground wire or something. Must be sure of this.

Usually your sort of problem happens with fouled spark plugs. Couldn't hurt to check cause I dare say one or more are all fouled up.

GTR4ever Enthusiast

GTR4ever

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Thanks for the complient - I think.... :confused:

:uh-huh: :wassup:

Could you of cut some wires that you shouldn't have, maybe a sensor wire, ground wire or something. Must be sure of this.

Usually your sort of problem happens with fouled spark plugs. Couldn't hurt to check cause I dare say one or more are all fouled up.

will do! :(

now that i think about it, am almost sure it has to do with the wires, coz it was runing flawlessly b4 "except for the runing rich part!"

the thing is.. i wouldnt know where or what to look for!!! coz i had all boot lining,half of the dash, front & back seats out, and the carpet on both sides!!

WetGTR Proficient

WetGTR

Posted
Posted

Start at 1 point and slowly go through any wire you could of touched. Any cut off wires, make sure you know what it is for. You must be patient. It's going to take a while especially when your surpect of some wire and have to find out what it is.

But think of it this way, if you get someone else to do it, imagine the bill......#$#$.

There is an all workshop manual that can help you out for things like this.

Eventually you will find it and all will be good.

Good Luck

P.S. Still check the plugs though, before anything, easier to start there, then going through all your wires.

jezzerrr Rising Star

jezzerrr

Posted
Posted

also check all of your coils... I'm not sure of the set up of yours but some are prone to cracking if you overtighten them... also if you changed them 100k's ago, is there any chance of water ingress etc?

things like this suck, it could be wiring, or it could be coincidence that it just happened after you were playing! good luck with it dude.

I agree with wet, check the easy (simple) things first!

GTR4ever Enthusiast

GTR4ever

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanx for the input guys..

i 4got to mention that my new rear speakers stoped working , and am sure they were fine some time last night, b4 this shit happend! talk about a coincidence!

am going to check that 1st, even though i dont see any connection!

GTR4ever Enthusiast

GTR4ever

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok, its 4:19 am over here, and just took my plugs out..

cant tell if they're good or bad for shit! am bad at this..

P1010316.jpg

P1010314.jpg

P1010333.jpg

are these what is causing this problem??

all tips are fine, only some discoloration on # 1 & 4

also, my bro is the one who gaped them, to .7 not .8 like i asked him,

said its not a big difference.

so now am just gna be waiting for help so i coud go back out side.

aint sleepn with my baby all opend up! :gaga:

.

.

WetGTR Proficient

WetGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi there,

OK, no.1 looks fouled, I can't see no.6 but no. 4 looks ok.

I see that you got the NGK BCP7E-11. In future get the BKR6E. The 6 means a hotter plug & better burn. These are also the ones I run in my car. The -11 means that at factory they were gaped at 1.1 so even if you got the BCP7E they would of been gaped at .8 & gaping them means a small bend.

If all was good & you have just recently installed these (100km ago) they should have looked exactly like 2,3.

It's up to you what you would like to do, but trying a new set of plugs is a good start & even if it's not that, well you'll have them just in case you foul any plugs (happens to Skyline alot) and they'll be there for your next service anyway.

Now your plugs are out, check all your coils for any cracks, examine closely.

WetGTR Proficient

WetGTR

Posted
Posted
heyyy! THE PIC IN UR SIGH ON THE RIGHT ISNT UP THERE!!

NOT FAIR!

I was in a rush, but your right, bad angles. I thought my pic of signature was in my photo's, I just checked - its there but it bigger

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...