Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've posted progress and pics of my Neo conversion into the ol R33 here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=71705

What I'm after is an aligning tool to put my flywheel/clutch assembly onto the Neo. Does anyone know where I could get one? Does anyone have one I could borrow for the 1/2 hour it'll take to bolt the assembly back on?

Has anyone had experience in putting on an exhaust cam pulley? I've got a HKS adjustable one on the old engine I want to swap over but am a bit hesistant about just diving into it all - you know, possible bent valves if I screw it up and all..

Also, I've already asked this question in the thread mentioned above, but does anyone know if there is a difference between the R33 and R34 crank angle sensors? They are plugged the same and look like they have the same mounting points. If they are wired differently, should I just swap them over?

Thanks in advance,

Cam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79112-neo-into-r33/
Share on other sites

If you need a aligner pm me

If your not sure of swapping the cam gear its probbaly best you get some experienced person to do this it probbaly save you $ in teh long run

Lumpy knows the neo to 33 cas wire

I think you find the key inthe exhaust cam ... or lack of it will prevent you bashing the 33 cas in.

bovs are "sikbro"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79112-neo-into-r33/#findComment-1447134
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...