Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I spent an hour removing one of these from an 85 MR30 lift back this afternoon and paid $ 50 for it . Does anyone know if there are rebuild kits for these and if the worm and sectors are still available . One other thing I noticed was that all three MR30's at the wrecker had worn joints on the nearside (idler arm) end of the drag link . My DR's steering box has a shocking amount of freeplay that can't be adjusted out . I dread to think what Nissan would want for a new one , if there's any left .

Any help appreciated , Cheers A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79402-r30-power-steering-boxes/
Share on other sites

I spent an hour removing one of these from an 85 MR30 lift back this afternoon and paid $ 50 for it . Does anyone know if there are rebuild kits for these and if the worm and sectors are still available . One other thing I noticed was that all three MR30's at the wrecker had worn joints on the nearside (idler arm) end of the drag link . My DR's steering box has a shocking amount of freeplay that can't be adjusted out . I dread to think what Nissan would want for a new one , if there's any left .  

Any help appreciated , Cheers  A .

Spoke to the guys from datsport very helpful.

http://www.datsport.com/

Unfortuneatley the 1600 suspension and steering is different enough to not allow their kits to be used on DR. But the guy I spoke to really knows his old nissan suspension.

Spoke to the guys from datsport very helpful.

http://www.datsport.com/

Unfortuneatley the 1600 suspension and steering is different enough to not allow their kits to be used on DR.  But the guy I spoke to really knows his old nissan suspension.

Oath!! Barry knows his shit very well!!!

I spoke to Peter from Sydney Suspensions (Heasmans) and he said that there is a high point in the worm sector interface and it should be adjusted to have no freeplay there (in the straight ahead position). The trouble is the further away from this point either way you go the more the freeplay there is . I can jack my car up and have about a quarter of an inch of movement in the offside wheel at full lock . Is this normal with these cars and this type of steering system ? I very much doubt the GRP A cars were raced like this .

Can anyone with experience in dinosaur era steering systems offer any solutions .

Cheers A .

I spoke to Peter from Sydney Suspensions (Heasmans) and he said that there is a high point in the worm sector interface and it should be adjusted to have no freeplay there (in the straight ahead position). The trouble is the further away from this point either way you go the more the freeplay there is . I can jack my car up and have about a quarter of an inch of movement in the offside wheel at full lock . Is this normal with these cars and this type of steering system ? I very much doubt the GRP A cars were raced like this .  

Can anyone with experience in dinosaur era steering systems offer any solutions .

Cheers  A .

The thing is becuase these cars when they raced were brand new, nothing had worn so i very much doubt that there would've been any play in them...Mine has got a little bit of play but its nothing that worries...It would be interesting to see if you got a brand new one from nissan if that has play in it or not????

I think all the trouble is in the many inner/outer tire-rod ends,drag link,pitman arm,etc,etc rather than the steering box itself? Providing the actual box isn't worn of course.Maybe there is some inherent fault in the *30's? Geez,even my old worn out KE20 coupe doesn't tram line and carry on like my HR30 used to! :confused:

Some bad news peoples , R30 Pwr Steering Boxes no longer available nor worms or sectors . Drag links are still around early and late type (changed around 10/83) but expensive at $458 retail . The race cars used one off special internals to suit that application .

Some bad news peoples , R30 Pwr Steering Boxes no longer available nor worms or sectors . Drag links are still around early and late type (changed around 10/83) but expensive at $458 retail . The race cars used one off special internals to suit that application .

That makes converting to rack and pinion sound even better. Frount runner (just from talking to some people who know Nissan) is currently series 2 280zx x-crossmember, rack and I may have the use the lower control arms and steering column.

I need to spend some time at wreakers with a tape measure.

What measurement do I need other than the size of the rack, were it sits in relation to the control arms and x-member, tie rod length, x-member size and were it sits in relation to the front wheels, track width of car, amount of left to right movement of rack/tie rods, pivot points of tie-rod arms

Does any of this make sense of am I just talking shit?

Dont know much but I am trying to learn.

Cheers

Remember that 70's cars didn't use the zero scrub geometry and hub offsets are different for this reason . To get around this you may need to cut and shut your control arms with the inner section from the Z . S12 stuff may be worth looking into (same era ) . Import Bluebird 910 with power rack could go close . Thats what I have and will use if my rally fabricator runs out of work . He once fitted manual Bluebird steering to an MR30 but can't remember which X member he used . The control arms were I think Skyline outer and Bluebird inner (cut and shut) . The steering arms were shortened Bluebird .

Remember that 70's cars didn't use the zero scrub geometry and hub offsets are different for this reason . To get around this you may need to cut and shut your control arms with the inner section from the Z . S12 stuff may be worth looking into (same era ) . Import Bluebird 910 with power rack could go close . Thats what I have and will use if my rally fabricator runs out of work . He once fitted manual Bluebird steering to an MR30 but can't remember which X member he used . The control arms were I think Skyline outer and Bluebird inner (cut and shut) . The steering arms were shortened Bluebird .

280zx series 2 was 82-83 I think. Yeah a few people have suggested S12 and the bloke from datsport also suggested a bluebird rack. Let me know how it goes if you go ahead was the job. What's the deal with cut and shut control arms, needs to be x-rayed to get engineer cert right?

No just a good race or rally fabricator who genuinely can weld and measure . I doubt anyone will look too close at a 20+ year old car , if its done properly it should look factory . Incidentally try running nolathane caster (radius rod) bushes and very little or no toe in . Mine has 6 deg positive caster , 1/2 neg camber and next time out from 1/16 toe to zero . Is feeling better .

oh this is nicely timed, I've been getting th DR ready for rego, dropped it in to have a seal replaced cause I don't have the gear for it, steering box was r000ted..$465 to have it rebuilt...thats just the rebuild cost nothing else. apparently they're just like nothing else around.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
×
×
  • Create New...