Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Last night someone broke into my car at work (east gardens/marubra). They smashed the ignition barrel and tried to start the car, the immobiliser stopped them so they took my 12 inch sub out of the boot. They didnt even try to take my gauges, turbo timer or headdeck. I could start the car with a screw driver but the steering wheel lock was on and i couldnt steer the car, got some mates to try and help me break it, no sucess. So i got it towed home. If anyone hears of a 12 Inch MTX sub going around cheap in abox let me know.

Also now that my ingition barrelf has been smashed and the steering colum is mangeled, will i have to buy a new colum and all that stuff?

Thanks for your help!

If i ever find the (unt ill kill them........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79567-car-got-broken-into/
Share on other sites

It was next to east gardens at British American Tobbacco in between 12:30pm - 8:30pm. The car didnt start because of the immobiliser, i got the car started when i finished work, but noticed the steering wheel was locked so i couldnt go anywhere.

Im stoked i still have the car, if it wasnt for the immobiliser i wouldnt have it.

That's bad news mate...

People always say that most immobilsers aren't worth anything as a *real* theif will get it if they really want it.

At least this goes to show that one will stop little punks that want to go for a joyride...

Sorry to hear about it but be happy you've still got your beast...

Also, I have a 12in mtx in a box sitting at home as we're selling my girlfriends Festiva. In new condition, hardly used and no marks or anything. Dunno what specs it is but seemed to pump alright in her car.

PM me if your interested.

Thanks

Burnsey

Just off the fone to SSS and JustJap both quoted me 200 -250 bucks for another steering colum and about 2 hours labour or so.

Does this sound right toy ou guys?

Cheers

You could just take the pin out and drive it home .

You will need the whole lock housing ( alloy ) a new barrell or reinstall the old barrell in the new ( used) Housing , (not an easy job ) and a new key . If they broke the steering shroud you need that as well .

I bought a new shroud ( r34 gtr ) from Nissan for $105 , a new immobiliser ring $220 , ( you dont have it in the 33 ) and a used ignition housing $75 but without a key , i used my old barrell .

They took my floor mats and damaged the A-pillar mould , new floor matts from Japan $500 and i still havent replaced the A-pillar mould .

You could just take the pin out and drive it home .

You will need the whole lock housing ( alloy ) a new barrell or reinstall the old barrell in the new ( used) Housing , (not an easy job ) and  a new key . If they broke the steering shroud you need that as well .

I bought a new shroud ( r34 gtr ) from Nissan for $105 , a new immobiliser ring $220 , ( you dont have it in the 33 ) and a used ignition housing $75 but without a key , i used my old barrell .

They took my floor mats and damaged the A-pillar mould , new floor matts from Japan $500 and i still havent replaced the A-pillar mould .

It was pretty hard to see what i was doing in a dark carpark, couldnt see shit so instead of mucking around and trying to find the pin i called a towie. I dont have a 33 i have a 32. My barrel is catctus, the locking mechanism is gone, there is no sign of it just the barrel.

Saturday is repair day, then cruising time, i miss my car!

  • 3 weeks later...

I had a similar sort of experience a coupla months back at Parramatta Westfield, I was only gone for 10 minutes max and they got to the barrel, almost all the way home with my car! when I got back, the bastards were sitting in their car looking at me. Only if it wasnt 4 of them and one of me at the time. I didnt even have an alarm cause I'd only owned it for a coupla weeks at the time. Yeah, so consider yourself lucky that u still have the beast.

Last night someone broke into my car at work (east gardens/marubra). They smashed the ignition barrel and tried to start the car, the immobiliser stopped them so they took my 12 inch sub out of the boot. They didnt even try to take my gauges, turbo timer or headdeck. I could start the car with a screw driver but the steering wheel lock was on and i couldnt steer the car, got some mates to try and help me break it, no sucess. So i got it towed home. If anyone hears of a 12 Inch MTX sub going around cheap in abox let me know.

Also now that my ingition barrelf has been smashed and the steering colum is mangeled, will i have to buy a new colum and all that stuff?

Thanks for your help!

If i ever find the (unt ill kill them........

sorry to hear !!

ill definitely keep an eye out around my area :sadam: , not to sure about the ignition barrel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
×
×
  • Create New...