Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g13sig.jpg

Guard Rolling

Suitable for solving light guard scrubbing problems.

$45/corner (VIC only)

Guard Flaring

Suitable for lowering cars on wide/low offset rims.

Heavy flaring may cause paint wear (require respray).

$65/corner (VIC only)

Please email [email protected] or call 0402 670354 for guard rolling/flaring.

flare.jpg

Guard Roller

Suit most stud patterns,

4 and 5 stud, PCD 98-120

bolt m12-m14

earn $600/wk doing only 3 cars!!!

$590

guardroller.jpg

Other parts available from GARAGE-13.COM...

Click the icons for links.

tyrepic.jpg

RIMS/TYRE PARTS

diffpic.jpg

DRIVELINE PARTS

susppic.jpg

SUSPENSION PARTS

intpic.jpg

INTERIOR PARTS

Cheers, Please PM/email [email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/79928-guard-rollingflaring-vic-melbourne/
Share on other sites

Have you got a picture on a real result and showing difference between guard rolling and guard flaring?

I may be interested to either roll or flare my front guards since on previous trackdays it rubs and shaved a bit of my tyres and did a bit damage on the guard curve itself.

guard rolling will make the guard look the same as standard, just that the edge inside lip is flattened against the guard to allow the wheels to move up/down close behind it.

if the wheel/tyres is further out the guards, it may need to be flared (like above pic)..

however this is generally limited to around 10-25mm depending on the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...