Jump to content
SAU Community

sr20 -> cefiro what parts needed?

sky80

By sky80,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

sky80 Rising Star

sky80

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sorry to go off topic but dont you have an rb26??

yep, i do, but since i cant afford to keep the car if i dont get some money some how, i've decided that maybe i should sell the 26 as a full rwd conversion kit to some one, and buy a cheaper engine to put in, that way i can still live for a few months before having to look for a job...

how much you guys reckon i can get for a complete rb26 engine with turbos, harness, power fc, gearbox, cross member, plenum, injectors...all that shit...

too_much_boost Mentor

too_much_boost

Posted
Posted

Meggala gets a workshop to do all his work. You are better off with someone who did the conversion themselves.

There are 3 SR cefiros in Sydney that I know. You should check them out. You are welcome to come check my conversion out and have a chat about it. PM me if you like

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

The workshop who did my car didn't exactly to a good job either sky80 so you wanna stay away from them, whoever they were. Listen to too_much he does good work, if you need to look at my car you're welcome to check it out also.

BHDave commented on my gearbox mounts being good so you may like to copy that but that's pretty much it.

too_much if you wouldn't mind would you please keep it in the thread so others (like me) can look at it? and so I can (with permission) use it on my website? :)

too_much_boost Mentor

too_much_boost

Posted
Posted

The conversion from stock RB20det manual to SR20DET manual in a cefiro is pretty straight forward. I'll run through what I did to make it all work

For starters, You need to pull the old lump out. I did this with the engine and gearbox still bolted together. This is always the easiest way to pull a driveline out. This is all pretty straight forward.

Remove all the cooler/intake piping

Take out the radiator

Disconnect the wiring loom from under the dash and pull it though to the engine bay

Disconnect the fuel lines, and throttle cable and any other bits that attached the engine to the chassis.

Unbolt the engine mounts

Lift

IMGP0151.JPG

While the engine was out, i gave the engine bay a scrub with a scrubbing brush and scourer and degreaser to get rid of the toxic RB stink through my engine bay.

IMGP0152.JPG

The SR engine mounts will not line up with RB crossmember, so I used an S15 crossmember (which bolts in with no mods), complete with S15 steering rack (although an S13 one will work just as well). I used S13 steering arms as the S15 ones were too long. The standard lower control arms remained in place.

IMGP0154.JPG

I bolted on the flywheel, button clutch and gearbox while the engine was out of the car, also put the stainless manifold and S15 turbo on while it was still out. The more you can do on the engine before you install it, the easier things will be. I also fitted the mount on the engine for my oil cooler kit.

I put the engine and box in while bolted together. There is ample room to do this. The engine mounts lined up fine. I was lucky to find that the standard RB20 tailshaft was the exact right length for my driveline, and had the same output shaft splines.

We had to modify the SR gearbox crossmemder, which took about half hour. The mounting holes needed to be elongated by about 8-10mm, and part of the lip needed to be ground off. This doesn't have much effect on the strength of the crossmember.

I used a stock S13 radiator, which fitted the standard bottom mounting holes quite nicely. I did have to make custom top mounts out of thin aluminium that i bent to shape.

IMGP0160.JPG

I made up a mild steel intake pipe and set about welding up some intercooler pipes for my fmic. Having a tig welder handy makes life easy. Also fitted a cusco catch can and plumbed it in

IMG_0638.JPG

IMGP0164.JPG

There is some wiring trickery involved, but i wont go into that here as i can't remember the exact details. You just need to have a SR20 wiring diagram/pinout handy, and the same for the RB, then match things up

The rest is just tidying stuff up. You will need a wheel alignment if you changed the steering rack. You will find the tacho will be out, so I got an aftermarket Pivot tacho.

I made my own front pipe and 3in cat back as there was nothing readily available

The finished product

IMGP0183.JPG

Since then i have fitted a few more things to make it faster and handle better

Sorry about being so longwinded, but you did ask! :)

sky80 Rising Star

sky80

Posted
  • Author
Posted

dude...you're a legend...some one pin this thread :)

there's so much space in there, V mount :D

too_much_boost thank you very much...the longer the wind, the better it is :) wanna come around and gimme some pointers when i get back from o/s? ;)

so s15 steering arms are too long, is that the arm that come from the steering wheel? or is it the radius rods?

too_much_boost Mentor

too_much_boost

Posted
Posted

I reckon now that i've done it once, i could do a drive-in, drive-out conversion in a weekend. The stuff that takes time is making the exhaust and FMIC piping.

The steering arms are the bit that goes from the steering rack to the tie-rod ends

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Thank you all for the replys 🙂 I know that intake would be different but that is one pipe at it is not that hard to get(custom one). I meant mainly bolt to the stock manifold and the turbo elbow. I looked and many sites/forums but they are just "old" with some old HKS turbos from GT-R i guess? What about some Garrets?  Or any other turbo? Is there even a turbo which i can just bolt on? 😄 And yeah i know about that new HKS but that is like 2000k USD without taxes/shipping in here   Iam getting a touch up tune but my "problem" is that on the "not" hot day iam getting peaks around 0,9 bar...and when it was around 15 Celsious i saw peak around 1 bar which is just too much for stock turbo. And of course turbo is old and i like to get some new one for a piece of mind 🙂 
    • GTSBoy
      new here

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm working on the assumption that our friend Jasmine here is a Russian (or, possibly Ukrainian) spammer/spambot, based purely on the number of such that I have been having to neuter in the last few weeks. IP address for the OP above was in WA. But that could have been via VPN. Posting at quarter to 4 in the morning is a good sign of being from somewhere in Europe. The last Jasmine that I kicked in the cooch was IP addressed in Ukraine. Even that could have been via VPN, and the bitchbot could have been from Russia, Serbia, China or anywhere. Regardless, was a spambot, so I killed it with fire. The fact that our new friend Jasmine here did not respond in any way to my tart query strongly suggests to me that this OP was just the establishment phase of a user able to be activated for spamming in a week, or 3 or 10.
×
×
  • Create New...