Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I currently have one pair of boots for a 32 for sale.

Brand new, made from black genuine cow leather & black press studs. That is, one quality gear (shifter) boot and one handbrake boot to fit into an r32.

$70 delivered to AUS

****Please note these gearboots are shown with flat seams ie dbl or contrast stitching which is an extra $10. For $70/pair you get SINGLE seams on the GEARboot, I'm sorry I don't have a pic of single seams right this second but I will get one asap, basically the stitching is on the inside joins only, however handbrake comes as shown****

Payment can be made by direct deposit (preferred), credit card (paypal) or cash. If you don't want them sent they can be picked up from the Epping (VIC) area over the weekend.

Please PM me, if you want pics please include your email and I'll send them asap.

If anyone else wants any for a 32 or a 33 just let me know, I also have some white sheepskin (slightly thinner) at the moment (as pictured).

Cheers!! :)

Kaz

*edit: note they are industrial grade studs not cheap copper crud that will fall apart/off

Here's some pics to give you an idea of them...

pic 1 & 2: no idea where 46n2 has put his gear knob but you get the drift! This is white sheepskin with black contrast stitching for a 32, leather looks a bit discoloured/dirty but its just the pic/lighting.

pic 3: obviously the wire hasn't been sewn but this is what you get for the handbrake boot in a 32, cowhide, just a straight swap really.

pic 4: two cowhide 33 boots and one 32 boot on the right. 32 boots can have wire sewn in (just hook up a chick/mum to do it for you!) or you can glue it with contact adhesive, stapling it in not particularly recommended :) 33 boots have holes around the bottom and is clipped in.. pretty easy really.

pic 5: my awesome sewing! That one has velcro but the ones I now sell just have press studs (unless you reallly want velcro and can't live without it....).

Better pics will come later.. if you want MORE pics let me know :)

I have to comment that Kaz's stitching is A1 :) so you can't go wrong.

Hi Kaz :wavey: :rant:

haha cheers Geoff :) Glad you're happy..

I love compliments, keep em coming :)

Sorry for the delay, emailing you all now :D

  • 2 years later...

this is an old thread but i am looking for leather replacement boots for my r32gtr (both handbrake & gear shifter)

are they still available?

if not can someone tell me where i can find this?

thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...