Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Turbo 94 1 owner in Australia $15,300 ono

White-R33
 Share

Recommended Posts

White-R33 Contributor

White-R33

Posted
Posted

Gday,

***UPDATE PICS ADDED***

Time to sell my toy... Bought a house and time for toys is over !

White, 2 door R33 coupe with the following :

GReddy Turbo Timer

GReddy Profec B Electronic boost controller

Exclusive Line 17" x 8" mags (made in Germany)

JUN side skirts

JUN rear bar

Bomex medium sized wing

Trial front bar

New 5 puk heavy duty clutch

Bosch 070 Fuel pump

X-Force 3 inch dump pipe

X-Force 3 inch full exhaust

Racing spec stainless cat convertor (legal)

K&N oversized pod air filter

Stainless 5 inch muffler (throaty RB sound)

BESTEX lowered springs from Japan

KYB super gas shocks (great on the bends)

new castor rods and bushes

AutoMeter boost gauge

Pioneer CD player

Power steering, climate control, cent locking, electric windows

NGK plugs gapped at 0.6mm (never mis fires ever garunteed!!) :)

Immobiliser

ALWAYS serviced every 5,000 - 7,000 kms with only mobil 1 motor oil and red line gear and diff oil

Only EVER used BP ultimate 98 RON fuel, nothing else

This car has had a full conversion (full motor swap) from non-turbo to turbo. The conversion was done by Full Throttle Performance (Ray) 14 months ago.

The motor that he put in was a series 2 turbo, from a black 96 r33 turbo. When the motor was put in, it had done 34,600kms. Since the conversion i have done at least 20,000kms and looked after the motor. the boost controller is never set above 10 PSI.

I will list every single little thing thats wrong with this car, as I believe in an open and honest sale.

1.) The front bar has 4-5 large cracks in it. It is made of fiberglass and one morning i started my car, after my girlfriend had driven it, and it was in gear. (i never leave it in gear) and bang... straight into the carport wall, cracked in a few places from stress... but still looks fine if you were to pass it on the street. I have a quote for 350 to bog it up and respray it, you may want to replace the front bar maybe though.

2.) There is a sratch down to the metal on the roof from when i was moving house. I tied a metal coffee table to the roof and the cushioning came loose from underneath it.. causing a scratch that i have been quoted $200 to touch up. its not huge, just one one side, about 10-15cm, and about 3 of them.

3.) The tint on the left hand side passenger door needs replacing. It is peeling away badly, however the other side is perfect. The quote i had for this is $65

4.) The rear right hand side indicator has a bit of the corner plstic cracked off and there is a dent, with the paint scraped off, just next to the indicator about 5cm accross, and about 2-3cm deep inwards. The indicator inside is in perfect order, and works. the outside plastic needs to be replace and teh dent pulled out and resprayed over. I have been quoted $550 (you could do a lot better though im sure, the dent it small)

5.) the vacuum hose in the boost gauge needs to be replaced. its plastic and it has cracked because i tried to move the boost gauge without unplugging it. you can get this from repo or supercheap for about 5 bucks and set it up again. the boost gauge works, but is not accurate with the air leaking.

Nothing else is wrong with this car. the motor etc is in perfect working order and has nver ever missed a beat.

The reason i havent fixed these things before sale is id rather just sell it now instead of messing about getting these things done, and I've put a lower price on it after taking these things into consideration.

I am down in bunbury, western australia, but im up in perth with the car sometimes. If you are serious, email me. or contact 0408 932 147

I have pictures, if you would like them, send me your email address. [email protected]

The price is $15,300 ono

Thanks.

White-R33 Contributor

White-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Forgot to add... I also have an Apexi twin chamger blow off valve that isnt on the car, but the buyer can have that aswell.. ive never put it on, but apparently they are loud? it has three settings, and retails for about 500 bucks

White-R33 Contributor

White-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yes, the DET gearbox was put in.

The brakes are the same as before, they are more than adequate, decent size four wheel disks. They never fail to pull me up quickly... It's not like there's a massive difference between the stock 187kw you get from the turbo motor, to the 152kw you get from the N/A motor... 30kw does not warrant a brake upgrade.

They are a 4 stud hub, and take the same mags as a silvia or the likes.

I have the turbo brakes, I was going to sell the seperately, but if someone wants them with the car, then no problems... but I wouldnt ever bother putting them on.

White-R33 Contributor

White-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Also... the radiator has been upgraded at the time of the engine swap. and the fuel pump was upgraded to a bosch 070.

You'll see that the clutch etc, was also upgraded on the list of additions on original post.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...