Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Here is what's in stock or landing soon

Algernon Intelesse

17x8.5 +15

17x10 +22

114.3 5hole

intelesse2.jpg

Intensive Hunk

19x10.5 +-0 front

19x12 +-0 rears

brand new rubber on the rears. the fronts are 95% as new.

114.3 5hole

hunkintensivefront.jpg

intensive.jpg

an example of the VSKF wheels we have on their way. landing soon.

18x8.5 +40 (big caliper clearance)

18x9.5 +43

114.3 5hole

vskf.jpg

HKS Hiper Damper to suit S14/S15 SOLD

8kg front springs, 6kg rears

height and damper adjustable

hkshiperdamp.jpg

Work CR Kai

18x8.5 +37

18x9.5 +37

114.3 5hole landing soon

3b7f3f95.jpg

More to come in the coming days and weeks.........

something for the S13 owners. :(

Cusco's

height and damper adjustable.

7kg front springs and 5kg rears.

low k's. no leaks or defects.

$1199 sydney pick up. interstate delivery also possible.

these will be here late August

5812f3a1.jpg

how much for them SSR professors?

Say, 17x7.5 and 17x9's, if not then 18's with the same width? If you were to get another set or two, or three or four

Coilovers for HCR32 don't come with camber tops. Only BNR32 (GT-R)

I can find you many sets of coilovers ranging from Cusco to HKS to TEIN.

I'll PM you with results over the weekend.

Cheers.

Charles.

R34,

if we take a popular size that fits a 5 stud silvia or a rear wheel skyline, the typical sizes that fit under the standard guards is

8.5 +35 fronts

9.5 +35 rears.

with this in mind,

these Hunk Intensives' do have very similar clearances on the insides as far as strut and inner guard clearances are concerned. the main differences is that they need 50mm to 60mm guards front and rear in order to fit.

they do have 60mm extra dish on the fronts and 65mm extra dish on the rears.

the tyres are a smaller tyre that is stretched to fit on the rim, giving a better chance to fit under the 50mm guards.

Hey would you be getting anymore VR GT-C's in?

im after 18's or 19's to fit R34.

Whats the price on a set of those?

Im after Gold though but any color will do.

Cheers mate!




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...