Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The scenario is you have AU$10,000 to spend on performance/handling etc modificatons for a series 1 rs4. What would you spend it on to make the most out of the money? Keeping in mind that you can't spend all the money on parts alone because although a lot of things can be done without paying for labour, some things can't especially if you don't have the right tools.

Without trying to achieve any specific big power figures but just create an all round good car. The car is completely stock to start off with....

My first though would be manual conversion but that is probably not everyone's cup of tea.

Well, as for at home mods

Jaycar EBC/DFA + tune (paid to someone) ($500)

Sway bars ($400)

Strut brace (unlucky like me) ($250)

Coilovers ($1500)

FMIC kit ($1500)

Exhaust (sorta pay someone, if it has right mounts, it a DIY job) (inc dump/front/cat/catback) ($1500)

CAI for airbox/pod ($50)

Pod/Air filter ($100)

Fuel pump (should be find to DIY if you are remotly mechanically minded) ($400)

** EDIT **

Do turbo and exhaust manifold at the same time. This is DIY, done it to an S14 takes a few hours ($2500)

That should bring you somewhere around 10k

this is what i would do

- exhaust

- air intake either pod in a sealed enlcosure or a high flow panel filter

- modify the air intake for better air flow

- suspension for sure including sway bars

- if auto the ebc and dfa probably jaycar and maybe the sitc that sk is playing with at the moment or a manual conversion which would be my pic and then a plug in like fcon or full aftermarket ecu depends on $$$ though

- 34gtt cooler or front mount cooler

- split dump pipe

- upgraded turbo

thats it so far dont know how far that would be over or under $10k but it depends on how much you can do yourself i suppose

i would love a manual conversion myself but it would not be something i could od myself and would cost $$$ i am sure

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

Hope your going to post some pics of your upgraded Stagea. :flamed:

hypothetically i didnt set out to spend $10'000 but its got there!!!

garrett GT35r (.63) $1900

top mount manifold $900 (after getting a sh#t one off ebay for $399 that didnt fit!!

Tial 38mm wastegate $499

turbosmart super sonic bov $300

fmic + piping (custom mandrell bent aluminium) $1600

oil and auto trans cooler $600

turbosmart e boost $750

uni chip piggy back $1600 (including labour and dyno tune)

oil catch can $150

turbo timer $299

3" turbo back custom stainless exhaust $1700

shift kit for the auto $380

grex metal head gasket $500

nismo 555cc injectors $1200

fuel pump$300

plus labour (has been in the workshop for 2 months!!)

this f#@ker better go hard!!

then there is the non performace up grades

R34 front seats re trimed in black leather to match the back $$??????

10.5" lcd and dvd player $3500

R34 wheels $2000

tow bar!!!! $350

rear wing $450

S T A G E A number plates $400

AND I STILL DONT GET MY LICENCE BACK TILL OCTOBER!!!!!!!

How do you find the shift kit? Well worth the money?

i was told the shift kit was a must for the power it should make(not going to come out with any claims yet!!)

syd kid put me on to a guy in SA

brakes and susp next.................................................

i was told the shift kit was a must - syd kid put me on to a guy in SA QUOTE]

Hi R33stagea' date='

Ive had my Stagea on the Adelaide roads for 1 week now, and would be very intrested in finding out who does the shift kit that you spoke of.....

Could you let me know please? Thanks very much. :uh-huh:

[email protected]

Brendan

I've installed the upgraded valve body that SK was recommending a while ago. I got it from adelaide. Now to remember the name? It was MV Automatics (speak with Mike) 1 Stirling Rd Blackwood, SA 5051. PH 0883700430. Highly recommended shifts a whole lot better and harder.

Cheers ICE

It was MV Automatics (speak with Mike) 1 Stirling Rd Blackwood, SA 5051.  Highly recommended shifts a whole lot better and harder. Cheers ICE

Sweet, thanks Ice! I'll keep that in mind for when Im ready to have it installed.

Hey, I too have a Dayz edition (just found that out!).

Brendan. :evil:

I have added a new item to my list, well maybe not a NEW item but I have certainly moved it up the scale a bit. BRAKES, I was playing with an XR6 Turbo last night and ended up with NO STOPPING. That was very exciting as I was braking very late and making sure I had higher corner speed to offset the power deficiency. He slowed up a bit more than I needed to, so I had to grab a bit of extra brake and there was nothing there.

So got some DBA rotors this morning and I am still persuing the brake pads (refer Stagea brakes thread).

Considering the power output potential of your thing R33stagea and the lack of handling mods, I would be looking very seriously at a brake upgrade.:)

So got some DBA rotors this morning and I am still persuing the brake pads

Hi SK,

Ive read so much great info about Stageas from your threads, cheers to you.

FYI, I put cross drilled and slotted DBA rotors to the front end of my VR SS sedan (trying to sell it now that Ive got CoolPC's stagea), and slotted discs only to the rear end. Used Bendix Ultimate pads..... I can confirm that they change the braking remarkedly for a 1600kg car. Definately worth the small $$ outlay.

May I ask if you upgraded the front and rear, and what sort of DBA's are you going to use? Good luck with the pads.

Brendan :evil:

Hi SK,

Ive read so much great info about Stageas from your threads, cheers to you.

FYI, I put cross drilled and slotted DBA rotors to the front end of my VR SS sedan (trying to sell it now that Ive got CoolPC's stagea), and slotted discs only to the rear end. Used Bendix Ultimate pads..... I can confirm that they change the braking remarkedly for a 1600kg car. Definately worth the small $$ outlay.  

May I ask if you upgraded the front and rear, and what sort of DBA's are you going to use? Good luck with the pads.

Brendan :evil:

Hi Brendan, I have started a new thread for Stagea Brakes, all the info (so far) is on there. OK on the DBA rotors, we use their slotted rotors on most of the race cars and all of the road cars.:)

Hi SK - Yup, had a look at that as soon as it came up. Thank you.....

Well done on posting up the info that ppl's can use for those extremely important things called brakes!

FYI ppl's, Ive got a mod'd Fireblade (150rwhp up from 115 stock).... yay to me, and as part of my 9grand spent on mods I did a 17inch front wheel conversion from a USA model CBR600 F3. With the new rim, I couldnt use the standard sized 310mm rotors, and have to use F3 296mm rotors, due to offest size.

Even with the top pads on the market, cleaned up calipers, and stainless steel braided lines, the brakes arnt anywhere near as good as what they were - and believe me, when you've gone up in power by 30% and dropped weight by a few kgs, you really notice the lack of feel and bite. At xxx speeds it can be scary!

For those that are spending say over 5k on engine mods, think long and hard about doing a cheap DBA upgrade, as per SK's Stagea Brake thread. You will notice the difference, and be glad you upgraded.

Cheers to you all, good luck with the mods!

Brendan :evil:

you mean to say ive had to spend all this money to make it go,NOW ive gotta spend more to make it stop!!!  

i thought thats what the gravel at the end is for!!!!!!!

Nope, you are supposed to turn left before the gravel......or is it right.... :confused: :confused: :confused:

Nope, you are supposed to turn left before the gravel......or is it right.... :confused:  :confused:  :confused:

Actually, in order to stop, try Both! Turn left real hard, then a quick right turn even harder, and 'hopefully' you'll stop, facing the way you came! But I wouldnt want to try it!!! :innocent:

Look at it this way, the brakes stop you from dying and the suspension keeps the tread evenly on the ground (so that the brakes can stop you from dying!).

If you're spending cash modifying a vehicle then spend roughly 25-30% of your budget on the brakes and suspension. Thats just my 5c, for whatever its worth.

On the CBR900RR Ive had all the suspension rebuilt by an ex 1980's 500GP rider to suit my 2m tall 125kg frame, but am saving for my last 2 mods, $500 310mm wave rotors with the correct offset, and a $1200 Ohlins rear suspension linkage.

The bike goes hell hard thru the Adelaide Hills (I go out 1st thing on a weekend morning to minimise traffic density and the risk of being BUSTED). But it'll be a different beast again once the brakes are back up to spec, and the rear is all sorted with top spec Ohlins (I get stuff at wholesale, so save mega $$).

'Aint mod's fun?

BW :evil:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...