Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am sure if you have SRS then it is illegal to fit a aftermarket steering wheel.

I wouldn't want to be tampering with the airbag trying to pull the wheel off anyhow.

Might end up with a broken nose :D Probably wont though.

I remember a mate of mine years back tried pulling off his steering wheel and removed the center nut.

There he was bashing the steering wheel, pulling at it then all of a sudden it came off and gave him a big bloody fat nose.

The main thing you have to worry about with the boss kit in the Skylines is the HICAS compatibility so that the HICAS light doesn't stay on all the time.

Always wondered about the airbag issue. I think however if the car was standard with an airbag its illegal to remove it - but of course the question is how are they ever going to know on an import?

Apparently on the earlier R33 and R32 the airbag was like an option. But seeing as its from Japan the actual knowledge by anybody here (outside us types) as to the standard equipment levels is going to pretty skant. Mine passed through a RWC no worries.

On the JustJap website (www.justjap.com) I've found some boss kits .. they list R33, R32, S13, Supra boss kits, then below that they have 'R33 Airbag boss kits'. (doesnt give any more info)

I'll shoot them an email asking if this lets me fit a aftermarket wheel (what else would it be fore?) and if it sits nice and friendly with the steering angle sensor.

My car is S1 so the airbag was an option, I dont particularly want one though anyway.

Guest INASNT

u can buy from Autospeed the boss kit so that the hicas still operates properly!

I sent a mate of mine in America with a GTR a boss kit for his momo steering wheel that replaced his airbag wheel!

http://www.autospeed.com/search.html?locat...&words=boss+kit

its the first 1 but the import version which costs about $200

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by Stoffle

It says there: Available for most cars, except those fitted with a driver's side airbag.

But your mates GTR has no troubles??

the import 1 from japan works with drivers side airbag, and hicas, u just have to take the airbag bulb out of the dash coz it will light up, but the hicas will work fine!!

Guest neoGT-25

2 thing's

INASNT... your car looks L337, can you please send me some pics of it to [email protected]

damn its hott! congrats!

and also for a personal opinion - why would you replace a safty device for a bit of rice? (hehe that rymed) i might sound like a hippie but seriously... i rather a airbag...

bye

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...