Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-729-1123070376.jpgpost-729-1123070428.jpgpost-729-1123070452.jpg1993 Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T in good condition, with very minimal mods, rearly boosted.

Odometer showing 118,000k's

Belts and water pump changed at 110,000k's (with a full service)

Regular maintenace (oil, oil filter and spark plugs at evey 5,000k's and fuel filter at every 10,000k's).

17" white wheel (235 fronts and 255 rears)

3' dump/front pipe to 2 1/2" cat, 3" cat back system.

Turbo smart dual stage in cabin boost controller.

Autometer 2 1/16 boost gauge

Pioneer double din cd/tape/radio player.

King springs - super low ride springs

R33 stealth wing (original wing will be supplied also)

Near new tyres on all 4 corners

Very clean interior

Other than the exhaust and boost controller it's standard and well maintained.

***SOLD***

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/81605-1993-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

i have seen the car and it is a very good example of a well looked after car with no money to spend...

Friski, i might be inclinded to buy it, but im waiting on my car to sell, i have the cash for it, but i really dont want to own two cars as this is the reason why i did not purchase it the day i saw it...

I will drop you a line soon mate...

Hope it sells..

-SINDOWS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...