Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All

I have an R32 GTR - with the basic mods - pulling ~300awkw @ 18psi running R34 n1s

I'm having some problems with ignition break down (old coil packs) - so I plan to upgrade to Splitfire coils ASAP

I just wanted to know if anyone has used the new HKS Twin Power (CDI+Transistor) system

available from nengun

http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/784

does this look like a work while upgrade

  • 7 months later...

Just bumping an old thread :(

Is there any real benefit from having a bigger spark on an engine? I thought it would mean a better burn of the petrol, and the ability to run a larger plug gap?

Surely there must be some benefits?

Is anyone running one, and have they noticed any differences?

edit - found an old post from SK

we use the standard coils up to 650 bhp (400 rwkw), no problems, with plug gaps at 0.8 mm. For over 700 bhp we use the Motec CDI unit with Mercury Outboard coils as they are designed to be used with CDI.

BTW, CDI is not an amplifier of the spark, it provides a multiple firing of the coil for each ignition, not one, single, long spark as is standard (non CDI). Consequently you need a coil that is specifically designed to be fired in multiples, very rapidly.

So CDI with standard coils is pretty much a waste of money and if you are under 650 bhp I wouldn't worry about changing from the standard setup anyway, provided it is in good condition of course.

Hope that helps

Are you saying the hks cdi system is a waste of money with splitfires on r32gtst SK?

Edited by Bl4cK32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...