Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

<_< A few weeks ago at Wakefield, coming out of turn 1, my R33 GTSt produced a massive puff of blue smoke as if some serious problem had occured. Engine was momentarily fluffy so I pulled into the pits. At idle it seemed OK but the air filter box had a big puddle of oil at the bottom. Figured turbo seals had failed so drove gently home and later to Powerplay at Drummoyne.

Could not get the turbo rebuilt - Garrett's said parts were no longer available so, in went a good 2H unit. Air/fuel mixture had been 12:1 at high revs so a GTR fuel pump and regulator went in too. Car now felt seriously strong and boost valve had to be wound back to zero (guage was showing almost 1 bar instead of 0.8 bar previously) - it now gives 0.75 bar at no clicks.

Next time at Wakefield on 4th lap, same spot, same big blue puff of smoke. This time just stomped on it, engine cleared and car ended up doing a couple of mid 11's, so seemed healthy. But there was a catch - at the end of the day the engine was down 2 litres of oil!

Powerplay now does not think it's a turbo problem. Does anyone have any suggestions? The car has done two and a half years of Supersprints but the engine sounds and feels perfect - and does not use oil in normal driving.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83589-big-blue-puff-of-smoke/
Share on other sites

get a compression and leak down test done. i had a similar problem, turbo was fine & no oil leaks anywhere. but i was always topping up the oil. turned out the rignglands were shot on all 6 pistons! an engine rebuild is in process at the moment.

not good news, but hope that helps

sam

Could be also that you're getting excessive blowby and the oil/air mixture is being pushed into the turbo via the crankcase ventilation. (Evident by oil in the air box). I highly recommend you invest in catch can kit(s) if you are doing track work.

have you pulled of your intake tube that connect to your throttle body?

check that for a oiliy residue. if so then check if your PCV (positive crank ventalation) hose that connects to your intake also has the same residue in it. if so then check your static compression.

you said that you checked your fuel air ratio? i have had one case where a dribbly injector was over fuelling and washing the bore there for burning oil.

Good luck,

Boz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...