Jump to content
SAU Community

Jgtc '3d' Wing From R32 Gtr

Beer Baron
 Share

Recommended Posts

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I have a GT wing that came on my GTR. It's the full 3D style JGTC wing and looks pretty tough. it also provides usefull downforce and is MUCH ligher than the standard wings. When I bought the car I was told it was a C-west wing, but I have a suspicion it's actually a Sard model as i have seen the exact same wing when i was in japan for sale as a Sard wing. Either way it's a nice piece of gear and is adjustable for different look/downforce level. I have all the mounting bolts and the rubber seals needed to mount it. The wing is in great condition.

It's in Sydney, northside and I think pick-up is the only real option for this one.

I'm asking $300 for it. Having seen how much it cost even in Japan for a genuine Japanese GT style wing this is pretty good going :)

here is a pic of it when i was picking up my car, it's kind of hard to see the shape in these pics.

post-3621-1123841935.jpg

here's another pic of it at home. again it's kind of hard to pick up the shape. But it looks damn good in the flesh :)

post-3621-1123842020.jpg

Thanks,

Richard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/83871-jgtc-3d-wing-from-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Ill give you $275 plus postage to Melb

sounds fair mate. I may even be able to work out something for you regarding the postage aspect.

Can you shoot me an email at:

[email protected]

Cheers,

Richard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...