Jump to content
SAU Community

R34, Headlights

Noxious
 Share

Recommended Posts

mad34 Experienced

mad34

Posted
Posted

the sad part is there are rusted out bombs that are blowing smoke getting around yet the coppers will pick on someone who puts better lights in their car so that they can see better at night.

I think that our regulations governing roadworthiness leave a lot to be desired. It seems that Lately all that the coppers are targetting is japanese imports.

But ah well that wont scare me out of making my car the way i want it as long as it is not a danger to me or anyone else.

Reggi34dr Rising Star

Reggi34dr

Posted
Posted

Satanic, I do understand your statement of "you must remember that they are just LIGHTS!!! It is not going to kill anyone nor pollute the environment in anyway.", but it doesn't matter what state your in with the compliancing rules for any car. The RAWS have to follow these compliancing guidelines/rules to make sure the cars (in this case R34's) meet the ADR's.

In the case of the xenon's in the R34's, RAWS have to remove and dispose of the xenon units, then show proof of removal and disposal of those units with pics or a full inspection. I'm in Qld and the story of removing the xenon units is the same.

So where did you get your xenon units for your car Satanic?

satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

svd164, I didn't know that it was a uniform rule throughout Australia.

I got the xenons on my car from the place where I got the car... the way I got them was the same as the way I told everyone above: by going to a car importer that does their own compliancing (add a little cash incentive, and then a direct swap with an un-complied car). I won't post who did it, but yeah basic concept.

The only way they could tell if every single xenon unit was destroyed would be to take down serial numbers which I don't think the units have.

This RAWS thing to me is a little bit flawed... but I'm still learning, maybe there is a legitimate reason why they have to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • f00stx
      Quieter performance exhausts (or muffler add-on options)

      By f00stx · Posted

      So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...