Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just installed early N1 turbos on to my r32 GTR and just wondering what boost these things are designed to run at. At 13 psi only make 10kw more than the standard ones at 13psi.

Mods are filters,exhuast and power FC.

Any help?

Thanks

they should be right at home when running b/w 16-22psi.

i have a similar question, I'm getting N1 turbos installed on my GTR as we speak, the car is standard, other than full exhaust system and aftermarket airfilters, how much boost can i safely run, without risking damage to the turbos or engine?

I was thinking around 15 pound max?

Hey sounds the the same as what ive got. Car made 220 with standard @ 13 psi and now 230 with N1s @ 13 psi . Sounds like the turbos are made to run higher boost but how far can the standard pump and injectors go? I was hoping 250-260 with 18 psi. See what the skyline gods say :P

Hey sounds the the same as what ive got. Car made 220 with standard @ 13 psi and now 230 with N1s @ 13 psi . Sounds like the turbos are made to run higher boost but how far can the standard pump and injectors go? I was hoping 250-260 with 18 psi. See what the skyline gods say :rant:

Id upgrade them to be safe anyway, if they havent had a good life and are on the way out this could be a recipe for disaster. No one likes having their engine lean out and go pop.

Id upgrade them to be safe anyway, if they havent had a good life and are on the way out this could be a recipe for disaster. No one likes having their engine lean out and go pop.

mhmm.

Pump and injectors would be a wise investment if you're going to be running around 18 pound.

heres another SK quote for ya...

N1's are OK for 1.2 bar, but nothing to do with breaking them. They just get a bit inefficient over that and heat up the air a bit. Boost is irrelevant anyway, as you do other things to improve the efficiency of the engine you will find the boost goes down but the airflow goes up. And airflow makes power not boost.

I understand that FLO is better than boost.But was concerned that runing the N1s at low levels was a waste off time.Good to know that they are efficient up to  1.2 bar but whats the other end of the scale? Is it a waste to run them at .8 or .9 bar?

Well I should know for sure on Friday......well be going on the Dyno hopefully, if nothing goes wrong, and I'll see how i go at different boost levels.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...