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Surprised that there's only been one nomination for CRD, given the number of GT-Rs you see in their parking lot (and the number of "big" cars they've put together).

For installing stuff I've been quite happy with Joshua from Pro Concept in West Ryde. He knows his mechanical stuff, especially for Nissans, and he's got an attention for detail that I don't see that often.

haha Scathing you beat me to it...

Seconded for Josh at Pro Concept.....

EVERYTHING mechanical I wont let anyone else touch my car.

tuning is done by hitman and fabrication work by maroun at Race Solutions.

So besides tuning and fabrication..everything else like installation and engine work and even suspension work is done by Josh. Cleanest workshop you will ever see.

IMHO one of the best nissan mechanics around.

ECU, Intercooler, Dump Pipe, Boost Controller, BOV.

ECU - power fc from the web and tune from unigroup or chip and tune from unigroup. Yavuz is the only dyno/tuner guy I've seen who's ever looked like he cares for the car getting tuned/on the dyno.

Intercooler - Recommend a GTR cooler for anything up to 250rwkw. Find it on the forums or buy a new one on the web, I wouldn't bother with the rubbish being sold at places like justjap.

Dump pipe - BATMBL on these forums will do you a good deal, just PM him he runs bosimporting.com.au and has dumppipes out the ass.

Boost controller - wait for a good second hand one on forums or buy a new one from a place like nengun. I recommend a blitz dual solenoid, either the current model or the model back.

BOV - if you really want one just buy one second hand off the forums, give it a clean and a lube and away you go. You may need some fabrication work for the adaptor but people sometimes sell these together. I have a professor sheepdog bov for sale if you want (pm me).

Good luck.

Judging by the response about bel, that place seems pretty good...

im lookin for a good mechanic to do some actual mechanic work on my R32 regarding a clutch and pedal box work.....

might go to bel and see what they can do

What do you guys reckon about Unique auto sports in castle hill?????

i have heard they are pretty good???

Judging by the response about bel, that place seems pretty good...

im lookin for a good mechanic to do some actual mechanic work on my R32 regarding a clutch and pedal box work.....

might go to bel and see what they can do

What do you guys reckon about Unique auto sports in castle hill?????

i have heard they are pretty good???

If its clutch work you need to get done.

www.westernclutch.com.au

they are in St Marys.....they are a clutch specialist.

Judging by the response about bel, that place seems pretty good...

im lookin for a good mechanic to do some actual mechanic work on my R32 regarding a clutch and pedal box work.....

might go to bel and see what they can do

What do you guys reckon about Unique auto sports in castle hill?????

i have heard they are pretty good???

I would personally recommend MArk @ MRC over UAS.. MArk used to work there couple of years ago befor eopening up his own place... Marks has a high standard of work, aswell as being down to earth, and doesnt mind explaining things, and recommending few diferent alternatives

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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