Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

star date: 6 hours past beer o'clock

captains log:

hello fellow aventurers..

i have chosen to path of the flush boot lid, as opposed to the ever popular drift wing, reason being the increasing popularity, and and i want to try something different. the only flush lids i could come across as buying, was either $600 + postage + paint for an offical Do Luck one, direct from USA, or $900ish for a carbon fibre one in perth, and CF bootlid doesnt look too flash on white car, especially as i dont have a CF bonnet.

so, i thought what the hell and im going to make my own. after having a look at GT N1K's flush bootlid on his lovely wide R33, and general ideas in my head, i want to come up with a bootlid that sits with a curvature much like the stock Series 1 R33 wing, but flush with the rear quarter panels.

the project started at about 10:47pm on this lovely cold friday night, and here is pictures thus far.

post-15551-1124464286.jpgpost-15551-1124464317.jpg

now i was lucky enough to get a bootlid that already had some form of lip on it (has nissan written on small in the middle of the bottom, stock lip perhaps???) which will aid in making a back support for the raising, and also gives me a perfect mounting position for something i will reveal further into the project.

tomorrow will consist of building up the raised section with foam, being able to give the bootlid shape without adding to the wieght.

if that proves to be successful, layers of fibres and resin will then be placed ontop to give it the raised shape i desire, smoothed back, and a bit of bog will fill in the gaps the fibreglass has.

at this stage i tossing up a few different ideas about having 'S K Y L I N E' embossed into the bootlid, and wether or not i want to keep the nissan lock, or go totally flush and remove it. i also have the issue(legaily issue too) of replacing the high level brake light, probably have an in-the-window job until i can sort something else out.

for now i bid farewall, and will give more pictures and updates tomorrow on the progress.

mitch.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84677-the-quest-for-a-flush-33-bootlid/
Share on other sites

as promised here is the next update...

i ended up catching the bus to bunnings, and grabbed the much needed catalyst, and soldiered on with my project..

i then proceeded to fill in the hole in the bootlid where the nissan logo/boot opener once lived... relatively easy job, applied a bit of tape over the hole, and bogged it up.. let it dry, sand and gave it one more bogging to make sure all gaps were filled, left for 30 mins then sanded the grap ot of it with a medium, then light grit sand paper.

it turned out like so..

post-15551-1124523768.jpgpost-15551-1124523784.jpg

mmm, smooth!

i then got to the real task at hand, leveling off the bootlid..

this one had me a little stumped at first, but i thought of a few ideas.

i started by taping up all the original spoiler holes, and over where the lip joined the bootlid and put some foam onto the boot as a base for the raise. then i stretched a bit of plastic drop sheet accross the bootlid, and taped it to the quarter panels, that gave me the desired hieght.

i then put down the first layer of resin, followed by a few small sheets of fibreglass. i let that sit to dry for a little while, then laid some cardboard over it to give it a bit more raise, and give it all flat, more resin, more fibreglass sheets, and more resin again.

i also bought a small 'strip' of fibreglass that i used to cover the back of the lip, and make the upwards part of the bootlid appear to be all as one.

now it is all sitting in the garage drying overnight, preparing me for a solid base to continue on with tomorrow.

here are pictures so far..

post-15551-1124524129.jpgpost-15551-1124524154.jpgpost-15551-1124524176.jpgpost-15551-1124524202.jpg

all the pictures can be found at : project pictures

Edited by mitchy_

so far its successful, ive done a bulk of the raising..

tomorrow will hopefully just be getting it all to approx. one hieght, then bogging and sanding the gaps in the fibreglass, and pending how that turns out, i may get the painters to do a final touch to get it all perfect and level, and get it painted, leveled, and badgeless! \o/

day 2 commences..

got most of the vertical part of the bootlid somewhat in shape today, it was much easier having a lip already there, i basically just bogged up the back of the lip to make it look like a continuation of the bootlid.

post-15551-1124591669.jpg

did a bit more fibreglassing on the top, not much though as i ran out of resin :(

that said i think i might give it a couple of days to set. even after leaving it overnight it wasn't completely dried, so if i leave it untill say wednesday, then thurs/fri ill sand the putty and fibreglass a bit, that gives me the weekend again with a nice smooth, solid surface to hopefully finish the project with. :D

post-15551-1124591344.jpgpost-15551-1124591362.jpgpost-15551-1124591421.jpg

again, all the photos are at project pics :)

Edited by mitchy_

cheers hazerb30 :(

i like it cause it gives it a more 'sleek' coupe look :)

i was looking at putting a R34 style wing, or a GT wing on it, but after seeing it how it is, i think ill keep it like that, im even considering *not* selling the car now aswell..

Ive seen a couple of these "fill in" jobs done here.

Give it 6 months and see the cracks in the bog and the sagging.

I want this look real bad and due to my job, I have spoken to many panel beaters about doing this, and filling it in certainly does not achieve good results.

For best results it needs to have new sheet metal grafted on.

Ive seen a couple of these "fill in" jobs done here.

Give it 6 months and see the cracks in the bog and the sagging.

I want this look real bad and due to my job, I have spoken to many panel beaters about doing this, and filling it in certainly does not achieve good results.

You're a fag. What would happen to all teh fibreglass bonnets on cars these days?

is that a m-sports style front bar? looks nice

its a bit hard to see it being black, it all blends in, but its a trust style bar made by fibrevision in welshpool :D

Edited by mitchy_
Ive seen a couple of these "fill in" jobs done here.

Give it 6 months and see the cracks in the bog and the sagging.

I want this look real bad and due to my job, I have spoken to many panel beaters about doing this, and filling it in certainly does not achieve good results.

For best results it needs to have new sheet metal grafted on.

this seems a bit negative... considering the quality you can get out of glassing these days i cant see sagging as a problem nor can i see cracks... he isnt going to be suporting weight on it and it has been done before by GT NIK and he has a wing on his also... why would this be any different?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
    • Ha ha ha, so they stopped the bearings spinning on the one you want, but then decided the crank hub should slip instead 😛   Stick to RB, at least you can work on it yourself. And now it doesn't smell of vapour   Also I still believe there's a chance your new flap doesn't "pop", as even though the engine might breath hard, it has a direct path with no restriction to the inlet, which when on boost should pull a bit of suction for you. If you do get pressure in the catch can id be very intrigued. Time to put a boost gauge on it, and a session at the track, then solid cover your vent and do another session
×
×
  • Create New...