Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi people,

I am new here and I m not from Australia. I am in Mozambique. I want to import from Japan a second hand gts25t. here are my questions:

-what is the max boost can i run with stock turbo?

-what are the best modifications for these car?

-how can i remove the speed limiter?

-i want to build a custom exhaust with twin tube. what size of tube i have to use?

what is the best turbo timer,mechanical boost controller,blow off valve,air filter for this car?

what are the advantages of mechanical boost controller?

is it possible to run on leaded fuel?

can i use UNICHIP piggyback computer?

what is the top speed and acceleration times in standard form?

what is the inlet size for air filter?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84681-1997-skyline-gts25-turbo-type-m/
Share on other sites

what is the max boost can i run with stock turbo? 9psi.. I wouldnt be pushing it more than that, unless you have some cooling devices such as front mount..

what are the best modifications for these car? bascially all bolt on stuff, and anything else you would like your car to acheive!!! Set your goal, and search for what you want.. But i would get front mount, full exhaust, pod, stuctbraces, do cams, suspesions and the list goes on, dependin on how much money you have..

how can i remove the speed limiter? theres a bit of muckin around to do.. BUT, there is an article in the tut section, so search there.. Been nicly covered with all diagrams n such..

by tube you mean PIPE right???

For comparisions of mechanical and electrical, that thread has been covered numours amounts of time.. Just do a search and that goes for rest of your questions..

I have a feeling you will be first owner in Mozambique with a skyline??? Are they lots of workshops there that can help you install most of these parts and such??

ohh btw, i wouldnt run my skyline on normal leaded fuel.. It wasnt desgined for it... The car might sluggish with normal leaded fuel.. Use 98 octane!!! No point puttin all these mods on, if you fillin it with normal fuel..

Hope that helped a little. .If not.. ahh well.. hahah

-what is the max boost can i run with stock turbo?

it depends on the condition of the turbo and how well you care for it. I have seen 14psi used consistently for a long time without failure. Always warm up well or drive off easy and don't go hard for at least 5 min. Come in steady to where your journey finishes and then allow a short idle down of around 30 sec.

-what are the best modifications for these car?

In this order, full 3" exhaust, front mount intercooler, adjustable rising rate fuel reg/fuel pump(bosch 030/033)/powerfc computer, new turbo/injectors then upgrade to a GTR33 :P

-how can i remove the speed limiter?

The powerfc will do this or an apexi RSM. there are other addons as well.

-i want to build a custom exhaust with twin tube. what size of tube i have to use?

try 2" for twin but there are so many 3" exhausts your should just buy second hand or get the car shipped with it.

what is the best turbo timer,mechanical boost controller,blow off valve,air filter for this car?

most timers are of a muchness, a basic bleed valve for mechanical or the aussie Jaycar electronic boost controller is about the best of all,BOV is a matter of preference but maybe GFB, Air filter I believe the apexi or blitz. There was a test done and one of these did really well.

what are the advantages of mechanical boost controller?

poorer than Jaycar but at least you can run a little extra boost.

is it possible to run on leaded fuel?

Not if you want your Oxygen Sensor to continue working.

can i use UNICHIP piggyback computer?

Yep

what is the top speed and acceleration times in standard form?

180 kmh limited or about 220 unlimited. 0-100kmh 6 seconds

what is the inlet size for air filter?

Around 70mm

As mentioned you should try to use a higher RON fuel such as 98 but with the PFC you can tune to run on any petrol fuel you desire.

Edited by GTRgeoff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...