Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Upon recent inspection i have found that the nuts securing my turbo to manifold have loosened themselves off and the turbo-manifold flange gasket has blown apart. I know this has been a problem for some owners, but was just wondering if anybody has fixed it and prevented it from re-occuring and whether anybody knows the cause of it?

Also would like to know where i can get a flange gasket in Adelaide, ie to repco, etc sell them and how much they are worth.

Also wondering whether anyone runs 0 or 5w synthetic oil as I am leaning towards 10w at the moment due to the age of the RB20

Thanks in advance

Dwayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85103-random-32-gts-t-questions/
Share on other sites

Hey all,

Upon recent inspection i have found that the nuts securing my turbo to manifold have loosened themselves off and the turbo-manifold flange gasket has blown apart. I know this has been a problem for some owners, but was just wondering if anybody has fixed it and prevented it from re-occuring and whether anybody knows the cause of it?

Also would like to know where i can get a flange gasket in Adelaide, ie to repco, etc sell them and how much they are worth.

Also wondering whether anyone runs 0 or 5w synthetic oil as I am leaning towards 10w at the moment due to the age of the RB20

Thanks in advance

Dwayne

Dwayne,

Firstly ( and this is only my opinion ), if you're going to remove the turbo to do the gasket, do yourself a favour and pull the exhaust manifold off the head, replace any damaged / broken studs ( almost every RB seems to break the rear most manifold stud in time ) and the manifold gasket.

As for the nuts holding the turbo on, just make sure that you use new / genuine lock tabs and gasket when putting the turbo back on ( gasket can be re-used a few times if OK ) and all should stay tight. Also make sure the studs are OK. Most of the cars that I've worked on that have had this problem have an old twisted set of lock tabs, are poorly bent / locking or none fitted at all.

Again my opinion, use nissan genuine parts unless something better is available. It's worth spending a little bit extra to get quality ! ( I can't stand people who spend $600 on rice gear but won't spend an extra $10 to buy a quality gaskt !! <_< )

Not touching the oil subject. Sure to cause debate :( I know what I use in my car and those that I service and I'm happy :)

Hope that helps.

Thanks FAT32,

I was going to check the manifold as well as I have heard of them breaking studs etc, which won't be a problem as I am a diesel mechanic myself. I thought I would just check first before checking genuine prices incase Nissan charge something like $50000 for a gasket like they do most other parts. I think i will go with 10w synthetic oil next should be fine

Cheers again

Dwayne

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
    • Ooo I might actually come and bring the kids, however will leave the shit box home and take the daily
    • Thanks. Yeah I realised that there's no way I'd be able to cover the holes with the filler, it would just fall through. Thanks again @GTSBoy!
    • That was the reason I asked. If you were going to be fully bodge spec, then that type of filler is the extreme bodge way to fill a large gap. But seeing as you're going to use glass sheet, I would only use that fibre reinforced filler if there are places that need a "bit more" after you've finished laying in the sheet. Which, ideally, you wouldn't. You might use a blob of it underneath the sheet, if you need to provide some support from under to keep the level of your sheet repair up as high as it needs to be, to minimise the amount of filler you need on top. Even though you're going bodge spec here, using glass instead of metal, the same rules apply wrt not having half inch deep filler on the top of the repair. Thick filler always ends up shitting the bed earlier than thin filler.
×
×
  • Create New...