Jump to content
SAU Community

Os Giken Clutch Install Question

berzerkled
 Share

Recommended Posts

berzerkled Contributor

berzerkled

Posted
Posted

For anyone here that has an OS Giken twin plate fitted in their car, did you have to cut down the part of the input shaft where the release bearing slides on? We finished the install and started the car and had some loud grinding, so ripped everything apart again and it turns out the brand new release bearing is pouched as it was rubbing on the pressure plate. I also found out the wrong part number was installed for the release bearing sleeve (well not wrong but a different one than what OS Giken says on their site). Could this be the reason why it looks like it was grinding on the input shaft sleeve?

The car is an '89 GTR. Thanks..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/85251-os-giken-clutch-install-question/
Share on other sites
TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted

To install the OS Twin ( Push Type ) You will need a different thrust bearing carrier being Nissan P/No. 30501-U0200 and use with Nissan Thust Bearing P/No. 30502-14601.

Make sure you also have the correct Flywheel to Crankshaft bolts ( shorter than the normal nissan ones by like 6mm ). You can cut yours to suit if prefered. You should not need anything else.

berzerkled Contributor

berzerkled

Posted
  • Author
Posted
To install the OS Twin ( Push Type ) You will need a different thrust bearing carrier being Nissan P/No. 30501-U0200 and use with Nissan Thust Bearing P/No. 30502-14601.

Make sure you also have the correct Flywheel to Crankshaft bolts ( shorter than the normal nissan ones by like 6mm ). You can cut yours to suit if prefered. You should not need anything else.

okay thanks

we'll get the bolts modified as well. it must have been the wrong clutch sleeve that casused the wear on the input shaft sleeve then i guess. would that be why?

TokyoTaxi Veteran

TokyoTaxi

Posted
Posted

Hard to confirm that without actually seeing it but I know mine was making the wrong noises and the clutch engagement / disengagement point was all wrong until I got the correct carrier / bearing combo. ( Note: those part numbers come directly from the O.S.Giken catalogue )

With the bolts, check exactly how much needs to be cut off.

I'm a bit concerned that you actually got to the point of running the car and possibly not having the bolts securely holding the flywheel / clutch on ! That itself might be where the wear came from.

berzerkled Contributor

berzerkled

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hard to confirm that without actually seeing it but I know mine was making the wrong noises and the clutch engagement / disengagement point was all wrong until I got the correct carrier / bearing combo. ( Note: those part numbers come directly from the O.S.Giken catalogue )

With the bolts, check exactly how much needs to be cut off.

I'm a bit concerned that you actually got to the point of running the car and possibly not having the bolts securely holding the flywheel / clutch on ! That itself might be where the wear came from.

yeah the bolts were all the way in, shouldn't be a problem there, but we're going ahead and taking 5mm off the input shaft sleeve

the bearing and sleeve are finally coming in tomorrow, should be installing it all again tomorrow night. will let you know what happens!

thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...